Monday, March 31, 2008

Food Procurement 3 of 3: Preparation of Fish and Game for Cooking and Storage


You must know how to prepare fish and game for cooking and storage in a survival situation. Improper cleaning or storage can result in inedible fish or game.

Fish

Do not eat fish that appears spoiled. Cooking does not ensure that spoiled fish will be edible. Signs of spoilage are:

  • Sunken eyes.
  • Peculiar odor.
  • Suspicious color. (Gills should be red to pink. Scales should be a pronounced shade of gray, not faded.)
  • Dents stay in the fish's flesh after pressing it with your thumb.
  • Slimy, rather than moist or wet body.
  • Sharp or peppery taste.

Eating spoiled or rotten fish may cause diarrhea, nausea, cramps, vomiting, itching, paralysis, or a metallic taste in the mouth. These symptoms appear suddenly, one to six hours after eating. Induce vomiting if symptoms appear.

Fish spoils quickly after death, especially on a hot day. Prepare fish for eating as soon as possible after catching it. Cut out the gills and large blood vessels that lie near the spine. Gut fish that is more than 10 centimeters long. Scale or skin the fish. You can impale a whole fish on a stick and cook it over an open fire. However, boiling the fish with the skin on is the best way to get the most food value. The fats and oil are under the skin and, by boiling, you can save the juices for broth. You can use any of the methods used to cook plant food to cook fish. Pack fish into a ball of clay and bury it in the coals of a fire until the clay hardens. Break open the clay ball to get to the cooked fish. Fish is done when the meat flakes off. If you plan to keep the fish for later, smoke or fry it. To prepare fish for smoking, cut off the head and remove the backbone.

Snakes

To skin a snake, first cut off its head and bury it. Then cut the skin down the body 15 to 20 centimeters (Figure 8-24). Peel the skin back, then grasp the skin in one hand and the body in the other and pull apart. On large, bulky snakes it may be necessary to slit the belly skin. Cook snakes in the same manner as small game. Remove the entrails and discard. Cut the snake into small sections and boil or roast it.

Birds

After killing the bird, remove its feathers by either plucking or skinning. Remember, skinning removes some of the food value. Open up the body cavity and remove its entrails, saving the craw (in seed-eating birds), heart, and liver. Cut off the feet. Cook by boiling or roasting over a spit. Before cooking scavenger birds, boil them at least 20 minutes to kill parasites.

Skinning and Butchering Game

Bleed the animal by cutting its throat. If possible, clean the carcass near a stream. Place the carcass belly up and split the hide from throat to tail, cutting around all sexual organs (Figure 8-25). Remove the musk glands at points A and B to avoid tainting the meat. For smaller mammals, cut the hide around the body and insert two fingers under the hide on both sides of the cut and pull both pieces off (Figure 8-26).

Note:

When cutting the hide, insert the knife blade under the skin and turn the blade up so that only the hide gets cut. This will also prevent cutting hair and getting it on the meat.

Remove the entrails from smaller game by splitting the body open and pulling them out with the fingers. Do not forget the chest cavity. For larger game, cut the gullet away from the diaphragm. Roll the entrails out of the body. Cut around the anus, then reach into the lower abdominal cavity, grasp the lower intestine, and pull to remove. Remove the urine bladder by pinching it off and cutting it below the fingers.

If you spill urine on the meat, wash it to avoid tainting the meat. Save the heart and liver. Cut these open and inspect for signs of worms or other parasites. Also inspect the liver's color; it could indicate a diseased animal. The liver's surface should be smooth and wet and its color deep red or purple. If the liver appears diseased, discard it. However, a diseased liver does not indicate you cannot eat the muscle tissue.

Cut along each leg from above the foot to the previously made body cut. Remove the hide by pulling it away from the carcass, cutting the connective tissue where necessary. Cut off the head and feet.

Cut larger game into manageable pieces. First, slice the muscle tissue connecting the front legs to the body. There are no bones or joints connecting the front legs to the body on four-legged animals. Cut the hindquarters off where they join the body. You must cut around a large bone at the top of the leg and cut to the ball and socket hip joint. Cut the ligaments around the joint and bend it back to separate it.

Remove the large muscles (the tenderloin) that lie on either side of the spine. Separate the ribs from the backbone. There is less work and less wear on your knife if you break the ribs first, then cut through the breaks.

Cook large meat pieces over a spit or boil them. You can stew or boil smaller pieces, particularly those that remain attached to bone after the initial butchering, as soup or broth. You can cook body organs such as the heart, liver, pancreas, spleen, and kidneys using the same methods as for muscle meat. You can also cook and eat the brain. Cut the tongue out, skin it, boil it until tender, and eat it.

Smoking Meat

To smoke meat, prepare an enclosure around a fire (Figure 8-27). Two ponchos snapped together will work. The fire does not need to be big or hot. The intent is to produce smoke, not heat. Do not use resinous wood in the fire because its smoke will ruin the meat. Use hardwoods to produce good smoke.

The wood should be somewhat green. If it is too dry, soak it. Cut the meat into thin slices, no more than 6 centimeters thick, and drape them over a framework. Make sure none of the meat touches another piece.

Keep the poncho enclosure around the meat to hold the smoke and keep a close watch on the fire. Do not let the fire get too hot. Meat smoked overnight in this manner will last about 1 week. Two days of continuous smoking will preserve the meat for 2 to 4 weeks. Properly smoked meat will look like a dark, curled, brittle stick and you can eat it without further cooking. You can also use a pit to smoke meat (Figure 8-28).

Drying Meat

To preserve meat by drying, cut it into 6-millimeter strips with the grain. Hang the meat strips on a rack in a sunny location with good air flow. Keep the strips out of the reach of animals and cover them to keep blowflies off. Allow the meat to dry thoroughly before eating. Properly dried meat will have a dry, crisp texture and will not feel cool to the touch.

Freezing

In cold climates, you can freeze and keep meat indefinitely. Freezing is not a means of preparing meat. You must still cook it before eating.

Brine and Salt

You can preserve meat by soaking it thoroughly in a saltwater solution. The solution must cover the meat. You can also use salt by itself. Wash off the salt before cooking.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Previously:

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Skinhead


He has a face that only a tattoo artist could love.

Say hi to Curtis “You want ink with that?” Allgier, a 27-year-old skinhead arrested in Salt Lake City. Even at face value, this is one bad dude.

Allgier was dubbed “Utah’s Public Enemy Number One” before his mug was flashed around. It didn’t take long for someone to spot him.

Duh!

Deputies first spotted his girlfriend (we wonder what she looks like!) and called in the SWAT team. Then, they say Allgier barricaded himself in his room, cut a hole in the ceiling and crawled into the attic. He later fell through the ceiling into another room, where he was arrested.

Lt. Chris Bertram of the Salt Lake County Sheriff’s office names Allgier one dangerous individual. - crimerant.com

Saturday, March 29, 2008

The Future

"Yes, there are two paths you can go by, but in the long run, there's still time to change the road you're on." - "Stairway to Heaven" by Led Zeppelin.


Route 1 -


Solutions to Earth's problems are discovered and implemented.

(We all live happily ever after.)

Example: Designed by Luigi Colani, this house maximizes use of land space.

A rotating central room is bedroom, kitchen, and bathroom.


Route 2 -


Poor political, social and environmental decisions are made.

(Chaos rules.)

Example: The film Idiocracy visualizes what would happen if Devo's proposition--that mankind is in the process of de-evolution--came to pass. The catalyst: the overeducated start having fewer children while the undereducated have more.


Which way are we headed?


Perhaps that question is best answered by asking another question--undoubtedly, the most important question of our time:


"In a world that is in chaos politically, socially and environmentally, how can the human race sustain another 100 years?" - Dr. Stephen Hawking. Read replies.


A newlywed husband is fascinated by a fortune telling machine in a cafe that makes uncanny predictions about his future. William Shatner and Patricia Breslin star in the season two Twilight Zone episode, "Nick of Time" (pt.1) (pt.2) (pt.3)


One thing remains certain...


"The future's uncertain and the end is always near." - "Roadhouse Blues" by The Doors.

Friday, March 28, 2008

Fed Drops Propaganda Flyers on U.S.


Fast Food Death


"Do you know why Americans call it 'fast food'? Because it speeds them on their way to their graves. " - Chuin, from the film Remo Williams.

1000 calories = Arby's Meatball Toasted Sub
1000 calories = Boston Market Boston Sirloin Dip Carver
1000 calories = Burger King BK Quad Stacker
1000 calories = Dairy Queen Large Oreo Cookies Blizzard
1010 calories = Carl's Jr. Original Six Dollar Burger
1010 calories = Jack In The Box Ultimate Cheeseburger
1010 calories = Sonic Peanut Butter Shake - Large (20oz)
1010 calories = White Castle Strawberry Shake - Large (Columbus & Detroit regions)
1020 calories = White Castle Chocolate Shake - Large (New York region)
1030 calories = Dairy Queen Chicken Strip Basket (4 piece)



1030 calories = Dairy Queen FlameThrower GrillBurger (1/2lb)

1030 calories = Dairy Queen Medium Choc. Chip Cookie Dough Blizzard
1030 calories = Del Taco Macho Bacon & Egg Burrito
1030 calories = Hardee's Grilled Sourdough Thickburger
1050 calories = Dairy Queen Large Reese's Peanut Butter Cup Blizzard
1050 calories = Del Taco Macho Combo Burrito
1050 calories = Jack In The Box Vanilla Ice Cream Shake (24oz)
1060 calories = Hardee's Big Country Breakfast Platter - Sausage
1060 calories = Hardee's Six Dollar Burger
1070 calories = Carl's Jr. Bacon Cheese Six Dollar Burger
1070 calories = Jack In The Box Sirloin Cheese Burger
1070 calories = McDonald's Deluxe Breakfast (Reg. Size Biscuit) w/o Syrup & Margarine
1090 calories = Jack In The Box Bacon Ultimate Cheeseburger
1090 calories = White Castle Chocolate Shake - Large (Nashville region)
1090 calories = White Castle Fish Nibblers - Sack
1090 calories = White Castle Strawberry Shake - Large (Minneapolis region)
1090 calories = White Castle Vanilla Shake - Large (Nashville region)
1100 calories = Del Taco Macho Nachos
1110 calories = McDonald's Strawberry Triple Thick Shake (32oz)
1110 calories = McDonald's Vanilla Triple Thick Shake (32oz)
1120 calories = Jack In The Box Bacon 'n' Cheese Ciabatta Burger



1120 calories = Jack In The Box Sirloin Bacon 'n' Cheese Burger

1130 calories = Burger King TRIPLE WHOPPER Sandwich
1130 calories = Carl's Jr. Western Bacon Six Dollar Burger
1130 calories = Dairy Queen Large Chocolate Shake
1130 calories = White Castle Chicken Rings (20)
1130 calories = White Castle Chocolate Shake - Large (Cincinnati region)
1140 calories = Carl's Jr. Guacamole Bacon Six Dollar Burger
1140 calories = Hardee's Big Country Breakfast Platter - Chicken
1140 calories = McDonald's Deluxe Breakfast (Large Size Biscuit) w/o Syrup & Margarine
1140 calories = White Castle Vanilla Shake - Large (Cincinnati region)
1150 calories = Hardee's Big Country Breakfast Platter - Country Steak
1160 calories = McDonald's Chocolate Triple Thick Shake (32oz)
1170 calories = Del Taco Macho Beef Burrito
1180 calories = White Castle Vanilla Shake - Large (New Jersey region)
1188 calories = Nathan's FRENCH FRIES (SUPER SIZE)
1210 calories = Jack In The Box Egg Nog Shake (24oz)
1220 calories = Hardee's Big Country Breakfast Platter - Breaded Pork Chop
1220 calories = Jack In The Box Strawberry Ice Cream Shake (24oz)



1230 calories = Burger King TRIPLE WHOPPER Sandwich With Cheese

1230 calories = Jack In The Box Chocolate Ice Cream Shake (24oz)
1230 calories = White Castle Chocolate Shake - Large (New Jersey region)
1250 calories = Hardee's Double Thickburger
1270 calories = Dairy Queen Chicken Strip Basket (6 piece)
1290 calories = Jack In The Box OREO Cookie Ice Cream Shake (24oz)
1300 calories = Dairy Queen Large Chocolate Malt
1300 calories = Hardee's Double Bacon Cheese Thickburger
1300 calories = Nathan's Chicken Tender Platter
1320 calories = Dairy Queen Large Choc. Chip Cookie Dough Blizzard
1420 calories = Hardee's Monster Thickburger
1520 calories = Carl's Jr. Double Six Dollar Burger
1537 calories = Nathan's Fish N Chips
1680 calories = White Castle Chocolate Shake - Large (Louisville region)


"Breathe out... slowly... do not gulp. If you do not breathe correctly, you do not move correctly. Pitiful. I can see the deadly hamburger has done its evil work. We must sweat the poison from your body and rebuild. " - Chuin

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Bombs Stink: The Survivability of Human Scent

The wreckage of a car bombing in eastern Beirut that killed a high-ranking terrorism investigator and three others, January 26, 2008.

Paper Written By

  • Rex A. Stockham, Explosives and Hazardous Devices Examiner, Explosives Unit, Federal Bureau of Investigation, Quantico, Virginia
  • Dennis L. Slavin, Bloodhound Handler, South Pasadena Police Department, South Pasadena, California
  • William Kift, Bloodhound Handler, Police Service Dog Unit, Long Beach Police Department, Long Beach, California
Abstract

A new and innovative approach that uses human-scent evidence to identify bomb makers and arsonists is presented. The process of identifying and locating a suspect after an explosion or fire is often complicated by the fact that improvised explosive and incendiary devices generally employ a time-delay mechanism to allow evasion well before their functioning. One approach that uses specially trained bloodhound-handler teams as an investigative tool to identify people who had contact with the devices has been developed. Pipe bombs containing explosives with varying explosion velocities were functioned, and metal and plastic gas cans were burned with gasoline. The purpose of this feasibility study was to demonstrate the survivability of human scent after being exposed to extreme mechanical and thermal effects from the explosion and burning of various energetic materials and the potential for use in criminal investigations.

Introduction

The ability of bloodhounds to effectively match collected scent to the correct person and follow that person through and across numerous environments to an effective conclusion is accepted in most courts and has been validated in a recent scientific study (Harvey and Harvey 2003). The authors identified no published studies that explore the durability of human scent.

In traditional bloodhound circles, the anecdotal information passed from trainer to student is that human scent is fragile and easily destroyed. Many dog handlers in the United States are taught that identifiable human scent disappears after 24 hours. European studies using properly trained scent-identification dogs showed acceptable performance levels with collected scent that was aged two weeks to six months (Schoon and Haak 2002).

This paper will demonstrate that human scent is durable and will remain identifiable after being exposed to extreme mechanical and thermal effects associated with the reactions of various energetic materials. This feasibility study does not address the durability of human scent as a function of physical parameters, such as surface temperature of materials. The effects encountered in the detonation of improvised explosive devices and the deflagration of improvised incendiary devices are not consistently reproducible due to the myriad of variables that can affect energetic material performance in an improvised device. In addition, conditions encountered by bloodhound handler teams during crime scene responses are never identical. Therefore, the test design discussed below reflects conditions encountered in an urban setting and examines the potential to use this technique in a criminal investigation.


Background

Generally, there are two methods of bloodhound-handler training in the United States—traditional and specialized. The traditional method teaches a bloodhound-handler team to have the dog search for matching scent at the beginning of the trail by casting about. The handler then determines the presence or absence of matching scent by "reading" the dog's behavior. Some groups have trained their bloodhounds to return to the handler and provide an alert upon determining that no matching scent is present in the area.

Scent collection techniques used to acquire human scent vary widely in the traditional bloodhound community. The most routinely used methods are direct scenting, swiping, and absorption. In the direct-scenting method, the bloodhound handler allows the dog to sniff the actual item of evidence. With the swiping and absorption methods, scent is transferred onto a gauze pad instead of using the actual item of evidence. Swiping, a direct transfer of scent onto a gauze pad, is achieved by wiping the pad across the surface of the evidence. Absorption, or placing the pad next to the scent article for an extended period, relies on the gauze pad's ability to gather scent while being in direct or indirect contact with the evidence. Although these methods have been used for decades, the potential for negatively affecting trace evidence is clear.

The specialized bloodhound-handler teams use a different response system to indicate the presence or absence of matching scent at the start of a trail. Although traditional handlers must rely on their ability to "read" the dog's behavior, the specially trained teams use a simplified yes or no response technique. At the start of the trail, if matching scent is present at the location being checked, the bloodhound trails. If no matching scent is present at the location being checked, the bloodhound refuses to trail. Once the bloodhound has started trailing, thus indicating the presence of matching scent, much of the handling techniques used in the traditional bloodhound community are relied upon.


The specially trained bloodhound-handler teams employ the Scent Transfer Unit (STU) to collect scent pads. The STU-100 is a portable vacuum collection unit that uses the flow of air to transport the components of human scent onto 11.25 by 22.86cm sterile surgical pads. (The pads are considered sterile for medical usage, not to denote an absence of any chemical compounds.) The vacuum's intake funnel supports the sterile pad to allow the evidence to be placed on or near the pad. At full charge, the STU-100's 12-volt fan pulls approximately 400 liters of air per minute across the surface of the evidence and through the pad, thus trapping the scent-causing materials. Where traditional scent evidence recovery techniques require direct scenting from the article of evidence or touching the evidence with a gauze pad, the airflow across the scent pad allows the evidence recovery personnel to immediately capture scent, thus minimizing the loss of other forensic evidence. It also provides a consistent type of scent article for presentation to the bloodhound.

When the investigators develop a suspect, the specially trained bloodhound-handler team is brought to a location recently visited by that person to conduct a suspect-location check. Typical locations for scent checks include the suspect's residence or work because these locations provide large areas of deposited scent due to the frequent travels in and out of the buildings. Generally, case law in the United States requires that the dog-handler team be placed on a trail where the suspect was known or believed to have passed. In order to fulfill these requirements, the handler is placed on this fresh trail location and asked to introduce the previously collected scent pad to the hound. The handler knows that he has been placed on a known trail but is not told details of potential outcomes, thus keeping him blind. In addition, the handler does not know if the scent pad for presentation is a negative control or a scent pad collected from an article of the crime.

Because these specially trained bloodhounds provide a yes or no response, a positive response indicates to the investigator that additional investigative efforts should be exerted to determine the reason that the dogs matched scent from the evidence to the location. This type of positive-scent match is most often associated to a resident or frequent visitor to that location. Assuming that the scent article being used contains a viable amount of scent, a negative response during a location check provides strong evidence to eliminate the suspect from the investigation.


Bombers and arsonists typically employ some time-delay method in improvised devices to remove themselves safely from the scene of the crime, and many of these events go unsolved. Using scent collected from the devices, qualified bloodhound-handler teams can use scent pads to conduct suspect-location checks, thus providing a new tool to assist in the identification and capture of these individuals.

Methods

Test Material

Four pipe bombs and two gas containers were used for scent articles. Four 2.7 x 20.3cm schedule-40 steel pipes and eight end caps were purchased wrapped in plastic. The gas containers, one metal and one plastic, were purchased new and immediately placed into large plastic bags.

Twelve test subjects were selected from a local search-and-rescue organization that had not been used in any previous training or testing. Most target and decoy pairs chosen were the same sex and age. In order to deposit scent, the targets handled their respective items for approximately one to two minutes, placed the items into resealable bags, closed, and labeled the bags. During the explosion and collection process, the bomb technicians and scent-pad collectors were monitored by the test planners to minimize any scent cross contamination. To accomplish this, the technicians and collectors were required to wear a new pair of latex gloves each time a new device was handled. Because assembly and collection personnel could have contributed scent even while wearing gloves, they were not permitted to be present during the testing.

Pipe Bomb Preparation

Four pipe bombs were constructed using two low-explosive powders and two high-explosive materials. Goex (Doyline, Louisiana) black powder, a 6:1.2:08 mixture of potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur, and Bullseye (Alliant Powder, Radford, Virginia) double-base smokeless powder, a combination of nitrocellulose and nitroglycerin, were chosen for the two low-explosive filled pipe bombs because of their availability and common use in domestic bombing incidents. In its legitimate form, smokeless powder is used for reloading ammunition, and black powder is typically used for a type of sport shooting. Kinepak, (Slurry Explosive Corporation, Oklahoma City, Oklahoma) a binary explosive consisting of a mixture of ammonium nitrate and nitromethane, and Composition C4, a military's cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine (RDX)-based explosive were the selected high-explosive fillers.


Figure 1. Photograph of a Black Powder Explosive



Figure 2. Photograph of a Smokeless Powder Explosive



Figure 3. Photograph of a Binary Explosive



Figure 4. Photograph of a C4 Explosive

To ensure the safe initiation of each buried pipe bomb, a detonating cord booster was placed into the energetic material. Holes were drilled in one of the two end caps to allow for the insertion of a length of Dupont (Dupont-ETI, North Bay, Ontario, Canada) 70-grain per-foot detonating cord with a pentaerythritol tetranitrate (PETN) core. After the pipes were half filled with the explosive material, approximately 10cm of a 61cm length of detonating cord was inserted into each pipe with the remaining length protruding from the containment vessel. A U.S. military nonelectric blasting cap and black powder core time fuse were used as a time-delay system to initiate the detonating cord boosters.

Each assembled device was placed inside a 20-liter plastic bucket that was packed with dirt. The bucket was then suspended inside a 189-liter steel drum and detonated. This technique was used to recover as much postblast fragmentation as possible. Some devices required the steel drum to be partially buried to further restrict scattering of fragments. Fragment recovery was completed for each device immediately after detonation, and before the next device was exploded. A screen sifter and magnet were used to locate and collect the smaller pieces. The recovered fragments were placed inside polyethylene resealable bags.

The maximum approximate reaction product temperature of black powder and double-base smokeless powders are 2380K and 2200 to 3800K, respectively (Picatinny Arsenal 1962). The reaction product temperature in detonating explosives can exceed 5000K (Persson et al. 1993). The ignition source temperature of gasoline is 1083K (Henderson and Lightsey 1984), with a much higher flame temperature that is dependent on oxygen content. These temperatures are not the surface temperatures of the containers but are provided to demonstrate the range of temperatures that can occur in the reaction zone of various energetic materials.

Arson Device Preparation

Two gasoline containers, one plastic and one metal, were placed on the ground and covered with one half liter of gasoline. The gasoline was ignited and allowed to burn for two minutes. The fire was then extinguished with water. After cooling, the remains were placed in separate paper bags.

Members of the Texas Bloodhound Search and Rescue Team

Dog-Handler Teams

Twenty professional and novice bloodhound-handler teams were used for this study including 16 handlers and 20 dogs. The bloodhound-handler teams using two dogs in this test were designated with the same numeric identifier but with a different alpha identifier (i.e., 4 and 4a).

Thirteen of the handlers were specially trained. The remaining three (10, 11, 14) were traditionally trained. Five handlers were full-time law enforcement dog handlers, three were reserve officers, and eight were civilians. The handlers' experience levels ranged from 700 cases worked to no field-case experience. The dogs ranged in age from under one year to seven years old. Twelve teams had previously trained on arson debris. Three teams had previously trained on bomb debris.

Follow this link to Table 1.

Scent Collection

Scent pads were collected from the pipe-bomb debris by placing the fragments onto the STU-100 and running the machine for approximately 30 seconds. Scent pads were collected from the arson debris by placing the STU-100 intake funnel inside each bag and running the machine for approximately 30 to 90 seconds. The decision to place the evidence article directly on the scent pad or to place the intake funnel inside the evidence container was made specifically for ease of processing. No empirical data has been gathered to determine if either collection method is superior to the other.


In order to eliminate cross contamination, the STU-100 intake was cleaned according to manufacturer's recommendation by using isopropanol swabs. The STU-100 was allowed to dry prior to collecting scent pads from each of the six devices. To minimize preparation time, most of the scent pads were split evenly with scissors into two sections after scent collection, thus creating two pads from one. Before cutting the pads collected from a new device, the scissors were cleaned with isopropanol swabs and allowed to dry. Half of the pads were collected with the STU-100 the same day the devices were functioned. The remaining halves were collected two weeks later. All of the pads were packaged in polyethylene, resealable bags and maintained at room temperature. The scent pads were randomly aged two days and 16 days before being presented to the dogs.

Trail Information

The trails were run in an urban public park frequented by joggers and people walking pets. Because it was previously demonstrated that bloodhounds are capable of identifying human scent that was vacuumed onto a scent pad (Harvey and Harvey 2003) and capable of matching that scent to a suspect on aged and contaminated trails through an urban environment (Harvey and Harvey 2003), no attempts were made to age or contaminate the test trails. For the test trails, 12 people walked a split trail; six scent targets and six decoys. On each trail, two people (target and decoy) were started at the same point and walked the first section of the trail side by side. After approximately 14 meters, they split at a 45-degree angle and continued another 18-27 meters to their respective hiding locations.

The bloodhound-handler teams were not permitted to see the trails being laid, and the target and decoy were hidden at the end of their trail.

Six stations were set throughout the park, one for each device. At each station, the target and decoy laid a new trail in a different location for each bloodhound-handler team so that no team ran the same trail. Each bloodhound-handler team completed one trail at each station. For each starting location, the teams were placed directly on the target and decoy trail. After placing the dogs in harnesses, the handlers were given an arbitrarily selected scent pad for presentation to their dog. The parameters recorded were as follows:

  • Did the dogs begin to trail?
  • Did the dogs identify the target person?

The following outcomes were recorded. For beginning to trail, a YES was recorded if the dog indicated the presence of matching scent at the start of the trail and began to follow. A NO was recorded if the dog gave no response to the presence of matching scent at the start of the trail. (Table 2)

Jogging trail, Central Park, New York

For the identification of the target person, a YES was recorded if the dog trailed to and alerted on the person at the end of the trail. If the dog trailed to the decoy person and gave a positive identification, a false positive (FALSE) was recorded. If the dog trailed but did not identify either the target person or the decoy, a negative identification was noted. Because the teams were given two minutes to complete their test, the positive or negative identification results only reflect the immediate response given by the dog at the end of the trail. The trails were monitored and recorded by people without knowledge of the correct outcome.

The test design replicated common crime scene practice; therefore, no negative-control pads were introduced. In actual casework, the bloodhound-handler team is placed on a known trail and given scent collected from an instrument of the crime. If an identifiable amount of scent is present on the scent pad and the bloodhound finds matching scent at the start of the trail, the bloodhound-handler team follows the trail to its logical conclusion.

Follow this link to Table 2.

The overall percentage for a positive beginning to trail indication was 78.3 percent. Beginning to trail indications were calculated by using the scores of the bloodhound-handler teams that indicated positive at the start of the trail. A no-response indication at the start of the trail did not necessarily signify that there was no matching scent present on the pad or at the trail beginning. This negative alert may also indicate that the dog was not able to detect such low levels of material. (Table 2)

The overall combined score for positive identifications was 70 percent. The score for dogs that indicated matching scent by beginning to trail and correctly identifying the target person was 88.6 percent with no false-positive indications. (Table 2)

Eight dog-handler teams with a casework experience level under five conducted 48 trails with 34 positive begin-to-trail indications (70.8 percent) and 31 positive identifications (64.5 percent). (Table 3)

Five dog-handler teams with a casework experience level more than five and fewer than 100 conducted 30 trails with 24 positive begin-to-trail indications (80 percent) and 19 positive identifications (63.3 percent). (Table 3)

Seven dog-handler teams with a casework experience level over 100 conducted 42 trails with 36 positive begin-to-trail indications (85.7 percent) and 34 positive identifications (80.9 percent).

Follow this link to Table 3.


Considerations

Several aspects of this study must be considered when factoring the significance of the findings. Overall, the dogs correctly identified the target person in 53 of the 80 bomb-debris experiments and 31 of the 40 arson-debris experiments with no false-positive identifications. The combined results and the absence of false-positive identifications supports the general reliability of this procedure and indicates that dogs can detect and identify human scent on bomb and arson debris.

Some positive identification could have occurred because a dog alerted on the first visual cue that it received. In the training of various teams, trails are set up so there is only one choice at the end of the trail—to identify the scent target. Teams that have trained with multiple decoys on the scent trail typically have dogs conditioned to check each person for a scent match. The specially trained teams in this study use multiple decoys in training. It is unknown whether the three traditionally trained teams use similar techniques.

The number of target identifications may have increased if there had been no time limit for the completion of each trail. The two-minute limit did not provide enough time for some of the bloodhounds to make a choice. This time limit may have also had a beneficial effect because the handlers did not necessarily have the time to entice their dogs to choose one target over another in order to complete the trail with a find, thus causing false-positive identifications.

No readily identifiable differences were observed that indicated the scent pads collected on the day of device functioning produced better results than the pads collected 14 days after the event. The following tables specify the scent-pad collection information and the test results for each pad.

Follow this link to Table 4.

Follow this link to Table 5.

Follow this link to Table 6.

Follow this link to Table 7.

Follow this link to Table 8.

Follow this link to Table 9.

Follow this link to Table 10.

The explosion and burning of the test materials in this series was conducted to maximize the chances of recovery. There are too many uncontrollable environmental parameters associated with the explosion and burning of materials to reliably replicate events associated with an actual crime scene. In each of these events the materials would have been handled differently and subjected to scattering, weather, and the influence of the actions of emergency personnel. Likewise, it is impossible in an experimental test scenario to control all of the environmental variables to accurately replicate trailing conditions experienced in casework. Consequently, the results derived from this type of feasibility test series only demonstrate the survivability of identifiable human scent and the potential to use it in an investigation. It does not indicate the ability of a particular breed, nor will it provide sufficient data to predict a scent dog's reliability in casework or testing.

Caution must be applied when dealing with human-scent evidence. Because scent is easily transferred, a positive trail or identification resulting from any scent article only shows a scent relationship to the scent article and must be verified and corroborated through other investigative means (Stockham et al. 2004). This scent relationship generally establishes a direct or indirect link between a person and an article of the crime; it does not prove complicity.

Search and rescue dog being trained.


Conclusion

This feasibility study demonstrated the ability of human scent to survive the extreme mechanical and thermal affects associated with the explosion and burning of various energetic materials. Furthermore, the ability of specially trained bloodhound-handler teams to match the collected scent to the correct person after these violent energetic events was demonstrated. By conducting suspect elimination checks with scent pads collected by the STU-100, a portable vacuum collection unit, this specialized approach has shown that it can assist in providing valuable lead information for investigators, focus valuable and often limited resources, and aid in the solution of crimes.

References

Harvey, L. and Harvey, J. Reliability of bloodhounds in criminal investigations, Journal of Forensic Sciences (2003) 48(4):811-816.

Henderson, R. W. and Lightsey, G. W. Effective flame temperatures of flammable liquids, Fire and Arson Investigator (1984) 35(12):8.

Persson, P., Holmberg R., and Lee, J. Equation of state of the explosion products. In: Rock Blasting and Explosives Engineering, CRC, Boca Raton, Florida, 1993, p. 102.

Picatinny Arsenal, Encyclopedia of Explosives and Related Items, PATR 2700, Volume 2, Dover, New Jersey, 1962, B170, C34-35.

Schoon, A. and Haak, R. Stability of the odor left on an object. In: K9 Suspect Discrimination, Training and Practicing Scent Identification Line-ups, Detselig Enterprices, Calgary, Alberta, Canada, 2002, pp. 47-48.

Stockham, R. A., Slavin, D. L., and Kift, W. Specialized use of human scent in criminal investigations, Forensic Science Communications [Online]. (July 2004). Available: www.fbi.gov/hq/lab/fsc/backissu/july2004/research/2004_03_research03.htm.

Wednesday, March 26, 2008

Food Procurement 2 of 3: Traps, Snares, Killing & Fishing Devices

TRAPS AND SNARES

For an unarmed survivor or evader, or when the sound of a rifle shot could be a problem, trapping or snaring wild game is a good alternative. Several well-placed traps have the potential to catch much more game than a man with a rifle is likely to shoot. To be effective with any type of trap or snare, you must:

  • Be familiar with the species of animal you intend to catch.
  • Be capable of constructing a proper trap.
  • Not alarm the prey by leaving signs of your presence.

There are no catchall traps you can set for all animals. You must determine what species are in a given area and set your traps specifically with those animals in mind. Look for the following:

  • Runs and trails.
  • Tracks.
  • Droppings.
  • Chewed or rubbed vegetation.
  • Nesting or roosting sites.
  • Feeding and watering areas.

Position your traps and snares where there is proof that animals pass through. You must determine if it is a "run" or a "trail." A trail will show signs of use by several species and will be rather distinct. A run is usually smaller and less distinct and will only contain signs of one species. You may construct a perfect snare, but it will not catch anything if haphazardly placed in the woods. Animals have bedding areas, waterholes, and feeding areas with trails leading from one to another. You must place snares and traps around these areas to be effective.

For an evader in a hostile environment, trap and snare concealment is important. It is equally important, however, not to create a disturbance that will alarm the animal and cause it to avoid the trap. Therefore, if you must dig, remove all fresh dirt from the area. Most animals will instinctively avoid a pitfall-type trap.

Prepare the various parts of a trap or snare away from the site, carry them in, and set them up. Such actions make it easier to avoid disturbing the local vegetation, thereby alerting the prey. Do not use freshly cut, live vegetation to construct a trap or snare. Freshly cut vegetation will "bleed" sap that has an odor the prey will be able to smell. It is an alarm signal to the animal.

You must remove or mask the human scent on and around the trap you set. Although birds do not have a developed sense of smell, nearly all mammals depend on smell even more than on sight. Even the slightest human scent on a trap will alarm the prey and cause it to avoid the area. Actually removing the scent from a trap is difficult but masking it is relatively easy. Use the fluid from the gall and urine bladders of previous kills. Do not use human urine. Mud, particularly from an area with plenty of rotting vegetation, is also good. Use it to coat your hands when handling the trap and to coat the trap when setting it. In nearly all parts of the world, animals know the smell of burned vegetation and smoke. It is only when a fire is actually burning that they become alarmed. Therefore, smoking the trap parts is an effective means to mask your scent. If one of the above techniques is not practical, and if time permits, allow a trap to weather for a few days and then set it. Do not handle a trap while it is weathering. When you position the trap, camouflage it as naturally as possible to prevent detection by the enemy and to avoid alarming the prey.

Traps or snares placed on a trail or run should use channelization. To build a channel, construct a funnel-shaped barrier extending from the sides of the trail toward the trap, with the narrowest part nearest the trap. Channelization should be inconspicuous to avoid alerting the prey. As the animal gets to the trap, it cannot turn left or right and continues into the trap. Few wild animals will back up, preferring to face the direction of travel. Channelization does not have to be an impassable barrier. You only have to make it inconvenient for the animal to go over or through the barrier. For best effect, the channelization should reduce the trail's width to just slightly wider than the targeted animal's body. Maintain this constriction at least as far back from the trap as the animal's body length, then begin the widening toward the mouth of the funnel.

Use of Bait

Baiting a trap or snare increases your chances of catching an animal. When catching fish, you must bait nearly all the devices. Success with an unbaited trap depends on its placement in a good location. A baited trap can actually draw animals to it. The bait should be something the animal knows. This bait, however, should not be so readily available in the immediate area that the animal can get it close by. For example, baiting a trap with corn in the middle of a corn field would not be likely to work. Likewise, if corn is not grown in the region, a corn-baited trap may arouse an animal's curiosity and keep it alerted while it ponders the strange food. Under such circumstances it may not go for the bait. One bait that works well on small mammals is the peanut butter from a meal, ready-to-eat (MRE) ration. Salt is also a good bait.

When using such baits, scatter bits of it around the trap to give the prey a chance to sample it and develop a craving for it. The animal will then overcome some of its caution before it gets to the trap.

If you set and bait a trap for one species but another species takes the bait without being caught, try to determine what the animal was. Then set a proper trap for that animal, using the same bait.

Note: Once you have successfully trapped an animal, you will not only gain confidence in your ability, you also will have resupplied yourself with bait for several more traps.

Trap and Snare Construction

Traps and snares crush, choke, hang, or entangle the prey. A single trap or snare will commonly incorporate two or more of these principles. The mechanisms that provide power to the trap are almost always very simple. The struggling victim, the force of gravity, or a bent sapling's tension provides the power.

The heart of any trap or snare is the trigger. When planning a trap or snare, ask yourself how it should affect the prey, what is the source of power, and what will be the most efficient trigger. Your answers will help you devise a specific trap for a specific species. Traps are designed to catch and hold or to catch and kill. Snares are traps that incorporate a noose to accomplish either function.

Simple Snare

A simple snare (Figure 8-5) consists of a noose placed over a trail or den hole and attached to a firmly planted stake. If the noose is some type of cordage placed upright on a game trail, use small twigs or blades of grass to hold it up. Filaments from spider webs are excellent for holding nooses open. Make sure the noose is large enough to pass freely over the animal's head. As the animal continues to move, the noose tightens around its neck. The more the animal struggles, the tighter the noose gets. This type of snare usually does not kill the animal. If you use cordage, it may loosen enough to slip off the animal's neck. Wire is therefore the best choice for a simple snare.

Drag Noose

Use a drag noose on an animal run (Figure 8-6). Place forked sticks on either side of the run and lay a sturdy crossmember across them. Tie the noose to the crossmember and hang it at a height above the animal's head. (Nooses designed to catch by the head should never be low enough for the prey to step into with a foot.) As the noose tightens around the animal's neck, the animal pulls the crossmember from the forked sticks and drags it along. The surrounding vegetation quickly catches the crossmember and the animal becomes entangled.

Twitch-Up

A twitch-up is a supple sapling, which, when bent over and secured with a triggering device, will provide power to a variety of snares. Select a hardwood sapling along the trail. A twitch-up will work much faster and with more force if you remove all the branches and foliage.

Twitch-Up Snare

A simple twitch-up snare uses two forked sticks, each with a long and short leg (Figure 8-7). Bend the twitch-up and mark the trail below it. Drive the long leg of one forked stick firmly into the ground at that point. Ensure the cut on the short leg of this stick is parallel to the ground. Tie the long leg of the remaining forked stick to a piece of cordage secured to the twitch-up. Cut the short leg so that it catches on the short leg of the other forked stick. Extend a noose over the trail. Set the trap by bending the twitch-up and engaging the short legs of the forked sticks. When an animal catches its head in the noose, it pulls the forked sticks apart, allowing the twitch-up to spring up and hang the prey.

Note: Do not use green sticks for the trigger. The sap that oozes out could glue them together.

Squirrel Pole

A squirrel pole is a long pole placed against a tree in an area showing a lot of squirrel activity (Figure 8-8). Place several wire nooses along the top and sides of the pole so that a squirrel trying to go up or down the pole will have to pass through one or more of them. Position the nooses (5 to 6 centimeters in diameter) about 2.5 centimeters off the pole. Place the top and bottom wire nooses 45 centimeters from the top and bottom of the pole to prevent the squirrel from getting its feet on a solid surface. If this happens, the squirrel will chew through the wire. Squirrels are naturally curious. After an initial period of caution, they will try to go up or down the pole and will get caught in a noose. The struggling animal will soon fall from the pole and strangle. Other squirrels will soon follow and, in this way, you can catch several squirrels. You can emplace multiple poles to increase the catch.

Ojibwa Bird Pole

An Ojibwa bird pole is a snare used by native Americans for centuries (Figure 8-9). To be effective, place it in a relatively open area away from tall trees. For best results, pick a spot near feeding areas, dusting areas, or watering holes. Cut a pole 1.8 to 2.1 meters long and trim away all limbs and foliage. Do not use resinous wood such as pine. Sharpen the upper end to a point, then drill a small diameter hole 5 to 7.5 centimeters down from the top. Cut a small stick 10 to 15 centimeters long and shape one end so that it will almost fit into the hole. This is the perch. Plant the long pole in the ground with the pointed end up. Tie a small weight, about equal to the weight of the targeted species, to a length of cordage. Pass the free end of the cordage through the hole, and tie a slip noose that covers the perch. Tie a single overhand knot in the cordage and place the perch against the hole. Allow the cordage to slip through the hole until the overhand knot rests against the pole and the top of the perch. The tension of the overhand knot against the pole and perch will hold the perch in position. Spread the noose over the perch, ensuring it covers the perch and drapes over on both sides. Most birds prefer to rest on something above ground and will land on the perch. As soon as the bird lands, the perch will fall, releasing the over-hand knot and allowing the weight to drop. The noose will tighten around the bird's feet, capturing it. If the weight is too heavy, it will cut the bird's feet off, allowing it to escape.


Noosing Wand

A noose stick or "noosing wand" is useful for capturing roosting birds or small mammals (Figure 8-10). It requires a patient operator. This wand is more a weapon than a trap. It consists of a pole (as long as you can effectively handle) with a slip noose of wire or stiff cordage at the small end. To catch an animal, you slip the noose over the neck of a roosting bird and pull it tight. You can also place it over a den hole and hide in a nearby blind. When the animal emerges from the den, you jerk the pole to tighten the noose and thus capture the animal. Carry a stout club to kill the prey.

Treadle Spring Snare

Use a treadle snare against small game on a trail (Figure 8-11). Dig a shallow hole in the trail. Then drive a forked stick (fork down) into the ground on each side of the hole on the same side of the trail. Select two fairly straight sticks that span the two forks. Position these two sticks so that their ends engage the forks. Place several sticks over the hole in the trail by positioning one end over the lower horizontal stick and the other on the ground on the other side of the hole. Cover the hole with enough sticks so that the prey must step on at least one of them to set off the snare. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to a twitchup or to a weight suspended over a tree limb. Bend the twitch-up or raise the suspended weight to determine where You will tie a 5 centimeter or so long trigger. Form a noose with the other end of the cordage. Route and spread the noose over the top of the sticks over the hole. Place the trigger stick against the horizontal sticks and route the cordage behind the sticks so that the tension of the power source will hold it in place. Adjust the bottom horizontal stick so that it will barely hold against the trigger. As the animal places its foot on a stick across the hole, the bottom horizontal stick moves down, releasing the trigger and allowing the noose to catch the animal by the foot. Because of the disturbance on the trail, an animal will be wary. You must therefore use channelization.

Figure 4 Deadfall

The figure 4 is a trigger used to drop a weight onto a prey and crush it (Figure 8-12). The type of weight used may vary, but it should be heavy enough to kill or incapacitate the prey immediately. Construct the figure 4 using three notched sticks. These notches hold the sticks together in a figure 4 pattern when under tension. Practice making this trigger before-hand; it requires close tolerances and precise angles in its construction.

Paiute Deadfall

The Paiute deadfall is similar to the figure 4 but uses a piece of cordage and a catch stick (Figure 8-13). It has the advantage of being easier to set than the figure 4. Tie one end of a piece of cordage to the lower end of the diagonal stick. Tie the other end of the cordage to another stick about 5 centimeters long. This 5-centimeter stick is the catch stick. Bring the cord halfway around the vertical stick with the catch stick at a 90-degree angle. Place the bait stick with one end against the drop weight, or a peg driven into the ground, and the other against the catch stick. When a prey disturbs the bait stick, it falls free, releasing the catch stick. As the diagonal stick flies up, the weight falls, crushing the prey.

Bow Trap

A bow trap is one of the deadliest traps. It is dangerous to man as well as animals (Figure 8-14). To construct this trap, build a bow and anchor it to the ground with pegs. Adjust the aiming point as you anchor the bow. Lash a toggle stick to the trigger stick. Two upright sticks driven into the ground hold the trigger stick in place at a point where the toggle stick will engage the pulled bow string. Place a catch stick between the toggle stick and a stake driven into the ground. Tie a trip wire or cordage to the catch stick and route it around stakes and across the game trail where you tie it off (as in Figure 8-14). When the prey trips the trip wire, the bow looses an arrow into it. A notch in the bow serves to help aim the arrow.

WARNING: This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution and from the rear only!


Pig Spear Shaft

To construct the pig spear shaft, select a stout pole about 2.5 meters long (Figure 8-15). At the smaller end, firmly lash several small stakes. Lash the large end tightly to a tree along the game trail. Tie a length of cordage to another tree across the trail. Tie a sturdy, smooth stick to the other end of the cord. From the first tree, tie a trip wire or cord low to the ground, stretch it across the trail, and tie it to a catch stick. Make a slip ring from vines or other suitable material. Encircle the trip wire and the smooth stick with the slip ring. Emplace one end of another smooth stick within the slip ring and its other end against the second tree. Pull the smaller end of the spear shaft across the trail and position it between the short cord and the smooth stick. As the animal trips the trip wire, the catch stick pulls the slip ring off the smooth sticks, releasing the spear shaft that springs across the trail and impales the prey against the tree.

WARNING: This is a lethal trap. Approach it with caution!

Bottle Trap

A bottle trap is a simple trap for mice and voles (Figure 8-16). Dig a hole 30 to 45 centimeters deep that is wider at the bottom than at the top. Make the top of the hole as small as possible. Place a piece of bark or wood over the hole with small stones under it to hold it up 2.5 to 5 centimeters off the ground.

Mice or voles will hide under the cover to escape danger and fall into the hole. They cannot climb out because of the wall's backward slope. Use caution when checking this trap; it is an excellent hiding place for snakes.

KILLING DEVICES

There are several killing devices that you can construct to help you obtain small game to help you survive. The rabbit stick, the spear, the bow and arrow, and the sling are such devices.

Rabbit Stick

One of the simplest and most effective killing devices is a stout stick as long as your arm, from fingertip to shoulder, called a "rabbit stick." You can throw it either overhand or sidearm and with considerable force. It is very effective against small game that stops and freezes as a defense.

Spear

You can make a spear to kill small game and to fish. Jab with the spear, do not throw it. See spearfishing below.


Bow and Arrow

A good bow is the result of many hours of work. You can construct a suitable short-term bow fairly easily. When it loses its spring or breaks, you can replace it. Select a hardwood stick about one meter long that is free of knots or limbs. Carefully scrape the large end down until it has the same pull as the small end. Careful examination will show the natural curve of the stick. Always scrape from the side that faces you, or the bow will break the first time you pull it. Dead, dry wood is preferable to green wood. To increase the pull, lash a second bow to the first, front to front, forming an "X" when viewed from the side. Attach the tips of the bows with cordage and only use a bowstring on one bow.

Select arrows from the straightest dry sticks available. The arrows should be about half as long as the bow. Scrape each shaft smooth all around. You will probably have to straighten the shaft. You can bend an arrow straight by heating the shaft over hot coals. Do not allow the shaft to scorch or bum. Hold the shaft straight until it cools.

You can make arrowheads from bone, glass, metal, or pieces of rock. You can also sharpen and fire harden the end of the shaft. To fire harden wood, hold it over hot coals, being careful not to bum or scorch the wood.

You must notch the ends of the arrows for the bowstring. Cut or file the notch; do not split it. Fletching (adding feathers to the notched end of an arrow) improves the arrow's flight characteristics, but is not necessary on a field-expedient arrow.

Sling

You can make a sling by tying two pieces of cordage, about sixty centimeters long, at opposite ends of a palm-sized piece of leather or cloth. Place a rock in the cloth and wrap one cord around the middle finger and hold in your palm. Hold the other cord between the forefinger and thumb. To throw the rock, spin the sling several times in a circle and release the cord between the thumb and forefinger. Practice to gain proficiency. The sling is very effective against small game.

FISHING DEVICES

You can make your own fishhooks, nets and traps and use several methods to obtain fish in a survival situation.

Improvised Fishhooks

You can make field-expedient fishhooks from pins, needles, wire, small nails, or any piece of metal. You can also use wood, bone, coconut shell, thorns, flint, seashell, or tortoise shell. You can also make fishhooks from any combination of these items (Figure 8-17).

To make a wooden hook, cut a piece of hardwood about 2.5 centimeters long and about 6 millimeters in diameter to form the shank. Cut a notch in one end in which to place the point. Place the point (piece of bone, wire, nail) in the notch. Hold the point in the notch and tie securely so that it does not move out of position. This is a fairly large hook. To make smaller hooks, use smaller material.

A gorge is a small shaft of wood, bone, metal, or other material. It is sharp on both ends and notched in the middle where you tie cordage. Bait the gorge by placing a piece of bait on it lengthwise. When the fish swallows the bait, it also swallows the gorge.

Stakeout

A stakeout is a fishing device you can use in a hostile environment (Figure 8-18). To construct a stakeout, drive two supple saplings into the bottom of the lake, pond, or stream with their tops just below the water surface. Tie a cord between them and slightly below the surface. Tie two short cords with hooks or gorges to this cord, ensuring that they cannot wrap around the poles or each other. They should also not slip along the long cord. Bait the hooks or gorges.

Gill Net

If a gill net is not available, you can make one using parachute suspension line or similar material (Figure 8-19). Remove the core lines from the suspension line and tie the easing between two trees. Attach several core lines to the easing by doubling them over and tying them with prusik knots or girth hitches. The length of the desired net and the size of the mesh determine the number of core lines used and the space between them. Starting at one end of the easing, tie the second and the third core lines together using an overhand knot. Then tie the fourth and fifth, sixth and seventh, and so on, until you reach the last core line. You should now have all core lines tied in pairs with a single core line hanging at each end. Start the second row with the first core line, tie it to the second, the third to the fourth, and so on.


To keep the rows even and to regulate the size of the mesh, tie a guideline to the trees. Position the guideline on the opposite side of the net you are working on. Move the guideline down after completing each row. The lines will always hang in pairs and you always tie a cord from one pair to a cord from an adjoining pair. Continue tying rows until the net is the desired width. Thread a suspension line easing along the bottom of the net to strengthen it. Use the gill net as shown in Figure 8-20.

Fish Traps

You may trap fish using several methods (Figure 8-21). Fish baskets are one method. You construct them by lashing several sticks together with vines into a funnel shape. You close the top, leaving a hole large enough for the fish to swim through.

You can also use traps to catch saltwater fish, as schools regularly approach the shore with the incoming tide and often move parallel to the shore. Pick a location at high tide and build the trap at low tide. On rocky shores, use natural rock pools. On coral islands, use natural pools on the surface of reefs by blocking the openings as the tide recedes. On sandy shores, use sandbars and the ditches they enclose. Build the trap as a low stone wall extending outward into the water and forming an angle with the shore.

Spearfishing

If you are near shallow water (about waist deep) where the fish are large and plentiful, you can spear them. To make a spear, cut a long, straight sapling (Figure 8-22). Sharpen the end to a point or attach a knife, jagged piece of bone, or sharpened metal. You can also make a spear by splitting the shaft a few inches down from the end and inserting a piece of wood to act as a spreader. You then sharpen the two separated halves to points. To spear fish, find an area where fish either gather or where there is a fish run. Place the spear point into the water and slowly move it toward the fish. Then, with a sudden push, impale the fish on the stream bottom. Do not try to lift the fish with the spear, as it with probably slip off and you will lose it; hold the spear with one hand and grab and hold the fish with the other. Do not throw the spear, especially if the point is a knife. You cannot afford to lose a knife in a survival situation. Be alert to the problems caused by light refraction when looking at objects in the water.

Chop Fishing

At night, in an area with a good fish density, you can use a light to attract fish. Then, armed with a machete or similar weapon, you can gather fish using the back side of the blade to strike them. Do not use the sharp side as you will cut them in two pieces and end up losing some of the fish.

Fish Poison

Another way to catch fish is by using poison. Poison works quickly. It allows you to remain concealed while it takes effect. It also enables you to catch several fish at one time. When using fish poison, be sure to gather all of the affected fish, because many dead fish floating downstream could arouse suspicion.

Some plants that grow in warm regions of the world contain rotenone, a substance that stuns or kills cold-blooded animals but does not harm persons who eat the animals. The best place to use rotenone, or rotenone-producing plants, is in ponds or the headwaiters of small streams containing fish. Rotenone works quickly on fish in water 21 degrees C (70 degrees F) or above. The fish rise helplessly to the surface. It works slowly in water 10 to 21 degrees C (50 to 70 degrees F) and is ineffective in water below 10 degrees C (50 degrees F). The following plants, used as indicated, will stun or kill fish:

  • Anamirta cocculus (Figure 8-23). This woody vine grows in southern Asia and on islands of the South Pacific. Crush the bean-shaped seeds and throw them in the water.
  • Croton tiglium (Figure 8-23). This shrub or small tree grows in waste areas on islands of the South Pacific. It bears seeds in three angled capsules. Crush the seeds and throw them into the water.
  • Barringtonia (Figure 8-23). These large trees grow near the sea in Malaya and parts of Polynesia. They bear a fleshy one-seeded fruit. Crush the seeds and bark and throw into the water.
  • Derris eliptica (Figure 8-23). This large genus of tropical shrubs and woody vines is the main source of commercially produced rotenone. Grind the roots into a powder and mix with water. Throw a large quantity of the mixture into the water.
  • Duboisia (Figure 8-23). This shrub grows in Australia and bears white clusters of flowers and berrylike fruit. Crush the plants and throw them into the water.
  • Tephrosia (Figure 8-23). This species of small shrubs, which bears beanlike pods, grows throughout the tropics. Crush or bruise bundles of leaves and stems and throw them into the water.
  • Lime. You can get lime from commercial sources and in agricultural areas that use large quantities of it. You may produce your own by burning coral or seashells. Throw the lime into the water.
  • Nut husks. Crush green husks from butternuts or black walnuts. Throw the husks into the water.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Previously:

Coming soon:

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Interviewing Saddam

Imagine sitting across from Saddam Hussein every day for nearly seven straight months—slowly earning his trust, getting him to spill secrets on everything from whether he gave the order to gas the Kurds (he did) to whether he really did have weapons of mass destruction on the eve of war (he didn’t). All the while gathering information that would ultimately be used to prosecute the deposed dictator in an Iraqi court.

That was the job of FBI Special Agent George Piro, who told his story on the TV news program 60 Minutes.

Soon after U.S. special forces pulled Saddam out of a spider hole on December 13, 2003, the CIA—knowing the former dictator would ultimately have to answer for his crimes against the Iraqi people—asked the FBI to debrief Hussein because of our longstanding work in gathering statements for court.

That’s when we turned to Piro, an investigator on our terrorism fly team who was born in Beirut and speaks Arabic fluently. Piro was supported by a team of CIA analysts and FBI agents, intelligence analysts, language specialists, and a behavioral profiler.

Piro knew getting Saddam to talk wouldn’t be easy. He prepped by carefully studying the former dictator’s life so he could better connect with Saddam and more easily determine when he was being honest. It worked: during the first interview on January 13, 2004, Piro talked about Saddam’s four novels and Iraqi history, which impressed Hussein. Saddam asked for Piro to come back.

From that day forward, everything Piro did was designed to build an emotional bond with Saddam and to get him to talk truthfully. To make Hussein dependent on him and him alone, Piro became responsible for virtually every aspect of his life, including his personal needs. He always treated Saddam with respect, knowing he would not respond to threats or tough tactics. As part of his plan, Piro also never told Hussein that he was an FBI field agent, instead letting him believe, for the sake of building credibility, that he was a high-level official who reported directly to the President.

It took time. Piro spent five to seven hours a day with Saddam for months, taking advantage of every small opportunity that presented itself, including listening to Hussein’s poetry. Eventually, Saddam began to open up.

Among Saddam’s revelations:

  • Saddam misled the world into believing that he had weapons of mass destruction in the months leading up to the war because he feared another invasion by Iran, but he did fully intend to rebuild his WMD program.

  • Piro told 60 Minutes that Saddam considered Usama bin Laden “a fanatic” and a threat who couldn’t be trusted.

  • The former dictator admitted “initially miscalculating President Bush and President Bush’s intentions,” Piro said, thinking the war would be more like the shortened air campaign of the Gulf War.

  • Saddam never used look-alikes or body doubles as widely believed, thinking no one could really play his part.

  • Hussein made the decision to invade neighboring Kuwait in 1990 following an insulting comment by one of its emirs.

Piro was so successful at befriending Saddam that the former dictator was visibly moved when they said goodbye. “I saw him tear up,” Piro said during the television interview.

Joe Persichini, Assistant Director in Charge of our Washington office and Piro’s boss, told 60 Minutes that Piro’s expert work in revealing Saddam’s secrets was “probably one of the top accomplishments of the agency in the last 100 years.”

To watch or read the full interview of George Piro, visit the 60 Minutes website.

Monday, March 24, 2008

Bomb Threat Stand-Off Distances

Click to enlarge or Download PDF.

This chart provides evacuation distances for various types of bomb threats.

If you are the unfortunate receipient of a bomb threat call, follow these: Bomb Threat Call Procedures (PDF)

Food Procurement 1 of 3: What to Eat

After water, man's most urgent requirement is food. In contemplating virtually any hypothetical survival situation, the mind immediately turns to thoughts of food. Unless the situation occurs in an arid environment, even water, which is more important to maintaining body functions, will almost always follow food in our initial thoughts. The survivor must remember that the three essentials of survival--water, food, and shelter--are prioritized according to the estimate of the actual situation. This estimate must not only be timely but accurate as well. Some situations may well dictate that shelter precede both food and water.

ANIMALS FOR FOOD

Unless you have the chance to take large game, concentrate your efforts on the smaller animals, due to their abundance. The smaller animal species are also easier to prepare. You must not know all the animal species that are suitable as food. Relatively few are poisonous, and they make a smaller list to remember. What is important is to learn the habits and behavioral patterns of classes of animals. For example, animals that are excellent choices for trapping, those that inhabit a particular range and occupy a den or nest, those that have somewhat fixed feeding areas, and those that have trails leading from one area to another. Larger, herding animals, such as elk or caribou, roam vast areas and are somewhat more difficult to trap. Also, you must understand the food choices of a particular species.

You can, with relatively few exceptions, eat anything that crawls, swims, walks, or flies. The first obstacle is overcoming your natural aversion to a particular food source. Historically, people in starvation situations have resorted to eating everything imaginable for nourishment. A person who ignores an otherwise healthy food source due to a personal bias, or because he feels it is unappetizing, is risking his own survival. Although it may prove difficult at first, a survivor must eat what is available to maintain his health.

Insects

The most abundant life-form on earth, insects are easily caught. Insects provide 65 to 80 percent protein compared to 20 percent for beef. This fact makes insects an important, if not overly appetizing, food source. Insects to avoid include all adults that sting or bite, hairy or brightly colored insects, and caterpillars and insects that have a pungent odor. Also avoid spiders and common disease carriers such as ticks, flies, and mosquitoes.

Rotting logs lying on the ground are excellent places to look for a variety of insects including ants, termites, beetles, and grubs, which are beetle larvae. Do not overlook insect nests on or in the ground. Grassy areas, such as fields, are good areas to search because the insects are easily seen. Stones, boards, or other materials lying on the ground provide the insects with good nesting sites. Check these sites. Insect larvae are also edible. Insects such as beetles and grasshoppers that have a hard outer shell will have parasites. Cook them before eating. Remove any wings and barbed legs also. You can eat most insects raw. The taste varies from one species to another. Wood grubs are bland, while some species of ants store honey in their bodies, giving them a sweet taste. You can grind a collection of insects into a paste. You can mix them with edible vegetation. You can cook them to improve their taste.

Worms

Worms (Annelidea) are an excellent protein source. Dig for them in damp humus soil or watch for them on the ground after a rain. After capturing them, drop them into clean, potable water for a few minutes. The worms will naturally purge or wash themselves out, after which you can eat them raw.

Crustaceans

Freshwater shrimp range in size from 0.25 centimeter up to 2.5 centimeters. They can form rather large colonies in mats of floating algae or in mud bottoms of ponds and lakes.

Crayfish are akin to marine lobsters and crabs. You can distinguish them by their hard exoskeleton and five pairs of legs, the front pair having oversized pincers. Crayfish are active at night, but you can locate them in the daytime by looking under and around stones in streams. You can also find them by looking in the soft mud near the chimneylike breathing holes of their nests. You can catch crayfish by tying bits of offal or internal organs to a string. When the crayfish grabs the bait, pull it to shore before it has a chance to release the bait.

You find saltwater lobsters, crabs, and shrimp from the surf's edge out to water 10 meters deep. Shrimp may come to a light at night where you can scoop them up with a net. You can catch lobsters and crabs with a baited trap or a baited hook. Crabs will come to bait placed at the edge of the surf, where you can trap or net them. Lobsters and crabs are nocturnal and caught best at night.

Mollusks

This class includes octopuses and freshwater and saltwater shellfish such as snails, clams, mussels, bivalves, barnacles, periwinkles, chitons, and sea urchins (Figure 8-1). You find bivalves similar to our freshwater mussel and terrestrial and aquatic snails worldwide under all water conditions.

River snails or freshwater periwinkles are plentiful in rivers, streams, and lakes of northern coniferous forests. These snails may be pencil point or globular in shape.

In fresh water, look for mollusks in the shallows, especially in water with a sandy or muddy bottom. Look for the narrow trails they leave in the mud or for the dark elliptical slit of their open valves.

Near the sea, look in the tidal pools and the wet sand. Rocks along beaches or extending as reefs into deeper water often bear clinging shellfish. Snails and limpets cling to rocks and seaweed from the low water mark upward. Large snails, called chitons, adhere tightly to rocks above the surf line.

Mussels usually form dense colonies in rock pools, on logs, or at the base of boulders.

CAUTION: Mussels may be poisonous in tropical zones during the summer!

Steam, boil, or bake mollusks in the shell. They make excellent stews in combination with greens and tubers.

CAUTION: Do not eat shellfish that are not covered by water at high tide!

Fish

Fish represent a good source of protein and fat. They offer some distinct advantages to the survivor or evader. They are usually more abundant than mammal wildlife, and the ways to get them are silent. To be successful at catching fish, you must know their habits. For instance, fish tend to feed heavily before a storm. Fish are not likely to feed after a storm when the water is muddy and swollen. Light often attracts fish at night. When there is a heavy current, fish will rest in places where there is an eddy, such as near rocks. Fish will also gather where there are deep pools, under overhanging brush, and in and around submerged foliage, logs, or other objects that offer them shelter.

There are no poisonous freshwater fish. However, the catfish species has sharp, needlelike protrusions on its dorsal fins and barbels. These can inflict painful puncture wounds that quickly become infected. Cook all freshwater fish to kill parasites. Also cook saltwater fish caught within a reef or within the influence of a freshwater source as a precaution. Any marine life obtained farther out in the sea will not contain parasites because of the saltwater environment. You can eat these raw.

Certain saltwater species of fish have poisonous flesh. In some species the poison occurs seasonally in others, it is permanent. Examples of poisonous saltwater fish are the porcupine fish, triggerfish, cowfish, thorn fish, oilfish, red snapper, jack, and puffer (Figure 8-2). The barracuda, while not actually poisonous itself, may transmit ciguatera (fish poisoning) if eaten raw.

Amphibians

Frogs and salamanders are easily found around bodies of fresh water. Frogs seldom move from the safety of the water's edge. At the first sign of danger, they plunge into the water and bury themselves in the mud and debris. There are few poisonous species of frogs. Avoid any brightly colored frog or one that has a distinct "X" mark on it's back. Do not confuse toads with frogs. You normally find toads in drier environments. Several species of toads secrete a poisonous substance through their skin as a defense against attack. Therefore, to avoid poisoning, do not handle or eat toads.

Salamanders are nocturnal. The best time to catch them is at night using a light. They can range in size from a few centimeters to well over 60 centimeters in length. Look in water around rocks and mud banks for salamanders.

Reptiles

Reptiles are a good protein source and relatively easy to catch. You should cook them, but in an emergency, you can eat them raw. Their raw flesh may transmit parasites, but because reptiles are coldblooded, they do not carry the blood diseases of the warm-blooded animals.

The box turtle is a commonly encountered turtle that you should not eat. It feeds on poisonous mushrooms and may build up a highly toxic poison in its flesh. Cooking does not destroy this toxin. Avoid the hawksbill turtle, found in the Atlantic Ocean, because of its poisonous thorax gland. Poisonous snakes, alligators, crocodiles, and large sea turtles present obvious hazards to the survivor.

Birds

All species of birds are edible, although the flavor will vary considerably. You may skin fish-eating birds to improve their taste. As with any wild animal, you must understand birds' common habits to have a realistic chance of capturing them. You can take pigeons, as well as some other species, from their roost at night by hand. During the nesting season, some species will not leave the nest even when approached. Knowing where and when the birds nest makes catching them easier (Figure 8-3). Birds tend to have regular flyways going from the roost to a feeding area, to water, and so forth. Careful observation should reveal where these flyways are and indicate good areas for catching birds in nets stretched across the flyways (Figure 8-4). Roosting sites and waterholes are some of the most promising areas for trapping or snaring.

Nesting birds present another food source--eggs. Remove all but two or three eggs from the clutch, marking the ones that you leave. The bird will continue to lay more eggs to fill the clutch. Continue removing the fresh eggs, leaving the ones you marked.

Mammals

Mammals are excellent protein sources and, for Americans, the most tasty food source. There are some drawbacks to obtaining mammals. In a hostile environment, the enemy may detect any traps or snares placed on land. The amount of injury an animal can inflict is in direct proportion to its size. All mammals have teeth and nearly all will bite in self-defense. Even a squirrel can inflict a serious wound and any bite presents a serious risk of infection. Also, a mother can be extremely aggressive in defense of her young. Any animal with no route of escape will fight when cornered.

All mammals are edible; however, the polar bear and bearded seal have toxic levels of vitamin A in their livers. The platypus, native to Australia and Tasmania, is an egg-laying, semiaquatic mammal that has poisonous glands. Scavenging mammals, such as the opossum, may carry diseases.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Coming soon:

Sunday, March 23, 2008

The 2020 Project: Mapping the Global Future

Mapping the Global Future is the third unclassified report prepared by the National Intelligence Council (NIC) in the past seven years that takes a long-term view of the future. The National Intelligence Council, as a center of strategic thinking and over-the-horizon analysis for the US Government, takes this as one of its key challenges. You may contact us with your comments.

As with the earlier NIC efforts—Global Trends 2010 and Global Trends 2015—the project's primary goal is to provide US policymakers with a view of how world developments could evolve, identifying opportunities and potentially negative developments that might warrant policy action. We also hope this paper stimulates a broader discussion of value to educational and policy institutions at home and abroad.

We consulted experts from around the world in a series of regional conferences to offer a truly global perspective. We organized conferences on five continents to solicit the views of foreign experts on the prospects for their regions over the next 15 years.

Significantly, the NIC 2020 Project employed information technology and analytic tools unavailable in earlier NIC efforts. We created an interactive Web site which contained several tools including a "hands-on" computer simulation that allows novice and expert alike to develop their own scenarios. This "International Futures" model is now available to the public to explore.

The entire process, from start to finish, lasted about a year and involved more than a thousand people. We appreciate the time and effort that each contributed to this innovative project.

Purchase a Hardcopy of "Mapping the Global Future" from the Government Printing Office (GPO stock number 041-015-00240-6) Download PDF (7.44 MB)


In Suzhou, shoppers gaze at a model wearing a diamond-encrusted bra.


Fictional Scenario: Davos World

This scenario provides an illustration of how robust economic growth over the next 15 years could reshape the globalization process—giving it a more non-Western face. It is depicted in the form of a hypothetical letter from the head of the World Economic Forum to a former US Federal Reserve chairman on the eve of the annual Davos meeting in 2020. Under this scenario, the Asian giants as well as other developing states continue to outpace most “Western” economies, and their huge, consumer-driven domestic markets become a major focus for global business and technology. Many boats are lifted, but some founder. Africa does better than one might think, while some medium-sized emerging countries are squeezed. Western powers, including the United States, have to contend with job insecurity despite the many benefits to be derived from an expanding global economy. Although benefiting from energy price increases, the Middle East lags behind and threatens the future of globalization. In addition, growing tensions over Taiwan may be on the verge of triggering an economic meltdown. At the end of the scenario, we identify some lessons to be drawn from our fictional account, including the need for more management by leaders lest globalization slip off the rails.

January 12, 2020

Dear Mr. Chairman:

As you know, the last few years have been rough. I finally persuaded the Asians to drop their boycott, and this year we're meeting in China instead of Davos. From now on it will be Switzerland every other year and Asia in the alternate years. I thought at first that I could get the Asians to back down, but they are united. Even the Japanese were not willing to bend. I'm not convinced this was all one big Chinese plot as some are charging. I'm not even sure whether the Chinese were fully in favor of it. Once it caught hold, they had to show some leadership and support Asian claims, but I think they are so confident of their current status that meeting every year in Davos did not bother them. Hosting the sessions actually puts pressure on them to make concessions and deal with some of the complaints about how they do business.

This reminds me of a particular theme I've been developing in my mind as I reflect on how globalization has now evolved. At the turn of the century, we equated globalization with Americanization. America was the model. Now globalization has more of an Asian face and, to be frank, America is no longer quite the engine it used to be. Instead the markets are now oriented eastwards.

That's not to say that the system runs on its own. Only after learning a couple of tough lessons did we see how much management was involved or how easily globalization could come off the rails. We business leaders have had to learn to step in more aggressively.

The 9/11 tragedy was a wake-up call. Terrorism still poses a physical and strategic challenge. In order to protect ourselves, we had to put up barriers, but there was a danger that we would do so much that we would undermine the very basis of globalization—the free flow of capital, goods, people, etc. We tried to strike a delicate balance between security and openness. There's been a lot of criticism about US visa restrictions cutting back on the number of foreign students, and American scientists worried about the US's science and technology leadership slipping away to Asia.

This gets me to my second point. Ten or 15 years ago we did not realize the extent to which the Asian giants were ready to take up the slack. The Chinese and Indians have really maintained the momentum behind globalization. It started out as a US-China dynamic, but now the Asian market is self-generating and not so dependent on trade with the US. Moreover, the competition between China and India over energy supplies and markets has spurred further growth and innovation.

But we had a few sleepless nights over the years, particularly when China ran into financial problems. The fact that the recovery was quick was probably crucial. I think Beijing would have had trouble coping with a full-blown political crisis. Such turmoil could have stymied its economic rise for a decade or more. Fortunately that did not happen. Although the US helped, the really interesting thing was that China dug itself out without the kind of US or international help we thought it would need. Again we underestimated the extent to which China had created a domestic market that could jumpstart its economy.

What the downturn unfortunately did was ignite the latent nationalism that had been lurking below the surface, again increasing tensions over Taiwan. China has been "feeling its oats" and the risk of miscalculation is growing. I'm getting more and more worried as no one—government or private sector—is stepping into the breach to head off what could be a major security and business crisis.

Tensions were also on the rise between China and India and the other emerging states. The success of the Asian giants made it harder for the smaller guys to catch up. The huge pull from China and India on jobs was not just felt in the West. Now we see higher pay for China's workers finally leading to jobs being exported again to lower-wage economies. In part, this can be attributed to demographics—China is a country that is suddenly looking older, its one-child policy coming back to haunt it.



Early on, the outcry in the West over outsourcing and migration could have stalled globalization, but what can we really do—hold back the "tides" of progress in some rerun of Luddite madness? I detected below the surface a strong temptation in Washington and European capitals to play off the emerging countries against China and India by giving preference to non-Chinese products.

On the positive side, it was high-tech breakthroughs that put some countries on the road to sustainable economic growth. Expanded food production from biotechnology innovations and clean water from better filtration systems were boons that helped eliminate the direst poverty and start an export-driven agricultural sector. China and the US finally ganged up on Europe about GMOs.

Higher commodity prices also have been a godsend—much more so than any debt forgiveness scheme. A couple of the Asian-backed energy consortiums practically run two or three of the smaller states. They're popular because they provide not only their workers but all the surrounding communities with full heath-care. Malaria and TB—not to mention AIDS—are being tackled. I'm reminded that businesses—if one thinks back to the East India Company's total rule over the subcontinent in the eighteenth century—were at the forefront when globalization first got going. Have we come full circle with business taking over again from government?

We've seen some progress in the Middle East with a couple countries actually undertaking market liberalization reforms, but others are still stuck in a rut. Palestine yearns for a George Soros figure who can inject a lot of capital and develop an export outlet, but I don't see anyone willing to make the investment.

Elsewhere, revenues generated by high oil prices have enabled the Saudis and others to stem what has been a plunging standard of living for most of them. That's not good in the long run. I fear there's more to this story that we may not like.

Davos has done a lot, I think, in opening up the old exclusive Western club. I admit at first I did not really see it coming—the fact that China and India with their burgeoning middle classes had begun to create such large markets. In the last few years, the whole balance—as I now realize—has been shifting. Asian consumers are setting the trends, and Western businesses have to respond if they want to grow. Fifteen years ago, few of us knew anything about Asian firms. Now we have Wumart. China also got Washington's attention when it started diversifying its foreign currency holdings and the US public awakened to the fact that it had been living way beyond its means.

By itself, Europe probably would have felt threatened by Asia's rapid rise, but—funny thing—a rising Asia was seen as a counterbalance to a dominant US. Asia's growth also helped Europe get out of its slump. The EU thinks it and China have a lot in common—reverence for regional institutions. China with its Shanghai Cooperation Organization, for example. I'm not so sure.

By the way, I heard that your granddaughter is also spending a semester in China, learning the language. Did you know that one of my grandsons is also there? Perhaps we can get the two of them together at the Davos-in-China meeting.

Lessons Learned

This scenario illustrates the vast changes that would be likely to result from continued robust economic growth and the stresses and strains that could derail it.

  • Growth in Asian markets would force domestic adjustments on the US and other Western countries that would need to be managed.
  • If the global trading system became more integrated and complicated, it would be important to bring China, India and other emerging states more inside the tent, but this would require patience and potential trade-offs.
  • It is unlikely that the system would be self-regulating. A strong global economy, for example, would not lead automatically to a resolution of crises like Taiwan.


Wangfujing intersects with East Chang'an Avenue. It has a history of more than 100 years. The street, which is less than one kilometer long, is lined with shops. The best-known shop is the Beijing Department Store. To the north of the department Store is the One World Department Store, hosting a collection of Chinese and foreign name brands and fine quality products. La Fayette presents French features, namely fashions and name brands. The newly-opened Sun Dong'an Market is the largest supermarket in Beijing. It covers a business floor space of 100,000 square meters and sells more than 200,000 kinds of goods. The Oriental Plaza, which is considered another miracle in Chinese architectural history, is scheduled for competition soon. It stands just by the south entrance of Wangfujing.

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Firecraft

In many survival situations, the ability to start a fire can make the difference between living and dying. Fire can fulfill many needs. It can provide warmth and comfort. It not only cooks and preserves food, it also provides warmth in the form of heated food that saves calories our body normally uses to produce body heat. You can use fire to purify water, sterilize bandages, signal for rescue, and provide protection from animals. It can be a psychological boost by providing peace of mind and companionship. You can also use fire to produce tools and weapons.

Fire can cause problems, as well. The enemy can detect the smoke and light it produces. It can cause forest fires or destroy essential equipment. Fire can also cause burns carbon monoxide poisoning when used in shelters.

Remember weigh your need for fire against your need to avoid enemy detection.

BASIC FIRE PRINCIPLES

To build a fire, it helps to understand the basic principles of a fire. Fuel (in a nongaseous state) does not burn directly. When you apply heat to a fuel, it produces a gas. This gas, combined with oxygen in the air, burns.

Understanding the concept of the fire triangle is very important in correctly constructing and maintaining a fire. The three sides of the triangle represent air, heat, and fuel. If you remove any of these, the fire will go out. The correct ratio of these components is very important for a fire to burn at its greatest capability.

The only way to learn this ratio is to practice.

SITE SELECTION AND PREPARATION

You will have to decide what site and arrangement to use. Before building a fire consider:

  • The area (terrain and climate) in which you are operating.
  • The materials and tools available.
  • Time: how much time you have?
  • Need: why you need a fire?
  • Security: how close is the enemy?

Look for a dry spot that:

  • Is protected from the wind.
  • Is suitably placed in relation to your shelter (if any).
  • Will concentrate the heat in the direction you desire.
  • Has a supply of wood or other fuel available. (See Figure 7-4 for types of material you can use.)

If you are in a wooded or brush-covered area, clear the brush and scrape the surface soil from the spot you have selected. Clear a circle at least 1 meter in diameter so there is little chance of the fire spreading.

If time allows, construct a fire wall using logs or rocks. This wall will help to reflector direct the heat where you want it (Figure 7-1). It will also reduce flying sparks and cut down on the amount of wind blowing into the fire. However, you will need enough wind to keep the fire burning.

CAUTION: Do not use wet or porous rocks as they may explode when heated.

In some situations, you may find that an underground fireplace will best meet your needs. It conceals the fire and serves well for cooking food. To make an underground fireplace or Dakota fire hole (Figure 7-2):

  • Dig a hole in the ground.
  • On the upwind side of this hole, poke or dig a large connecting hole for ventilation.
  • Build your fire in the hole as illustrated.

If you are in a snow-covered area, use green logs to make a dry base for your fire (Figure 7-3). Trees with wrist-sized trunks are easily broken in extreme cold. Cut or break several green logs and lay them side by side on top of the snow. Add one or two more layers. Lay the top layer of logs opposite those below it.

FIRE MATERIAL SELECTION

You need three types of materials (Figure 7-4) to build a fire--tinder, kindling, and fuel.

Tinder is dry material that ignites with little heat--a spark starts a fire. The tinder must be absolutely dry to be sure just a spark will ignite it. If you only have a device that generates sparks, charred cloth will be almost essential. It holds a spark for long periods, allowing you to put tinder on the hot area to generate a small flame. You can make charred cloth by heating cotton cloth until it turns black, but does not burn. Once it is black, you must keep it in an airtight container to keep it dry. Prepare this cloth well in advance of any survival situation. Add it to your individual survival kit.

Kindling is readily combustible material that you add to the burning tinder. Again, this material should be absolutely dry to ensure rapid burning. Kindling increases the fire's temperature so that it will ignite less combustible material.

Fuel is less combustible material that burns slowly and steadily once ignited.

HOW TO BUILD A FIRE

There are several methods for laying a fire, each of which has advantages. The situation you find yourself in will determine which fire to use.

Tepee

To make this fire (Figure 7-5), arrange the tinder and a few sticks of kindling in the shape of a tepee or cone. Light the center. As the tepee burns, the outside logs will fall inward, feeding the fire. This type of fire burns well even with wet wood.

Lean-To

To lay this fire (Figure 7-5), push a green stick into the ground at a 30-degree angle. Point the end of the stick in the direction of the wind. Place some tinder deep under this lean-to stick. Lean pieces of kindling against the lean-to stick. Light the tinder. As the kindling catches fire from the tinder, add more kindling.

Cross-Ditch

To use this method (Figure 7-5), scratch a cross about 30 centimeters in size in the ground. Dig the cross 7.5 centimeters deep. Put a large wad of tinder in the middle of the cross. Build a kindling pyramid above the tinder. The shallow ditch allows air to sweep under the tinder to provide a draft.

Pyramid

To lay this fire (Figure 7-5), place two small logs or branches parallel on the ground. Place a solid layer of small logs across the parallel logs. Add three or four more layers of logs or branches, each layer smaller than and at a right angle to the layer below it. Make a starter fire on top of the pyramid. As the starter fire burns, it will ignite the logs below it. This gives you a fire that burns downward, requiring no attention during the night.

There are several other ways to lay a fire that are quite effective. Your situation and the material available in the area may make another method more suitable.

HOW TO LIGHT A FIRE

Always light your fire from the upwind side. Make sure to lay your tinder, kindling, and fuel so that your fire will burn as long as you need it. Igniters provide the initial heat required to start the tinder burning. They fall into two categories: modern methods and primitive methods.

Modern Methods

Modern igniters use modern devices--items we normally think of to start a fire.

Matches

Make sure these matches are waterproof. Also, store them in a waterproof container along with a dependable striker pad.

Convex Lens

Use this method (Figure 7-6) only on bright, sunny days. The lens can come from binoculars, camera, telescopic sights, or magnifying glasses. Angle the lens to concentrate the sun's rays on the tinder. Hold the lens over the same spot until the tinder begins to smolder. Gently blow or fan the tinder into flame, and apply it to the fire lay.

Metal Match

Place a flat, dry leaf under your tinder with a portion exposed. Place the tip of the metal match on the dry leaf, holding the metal match in one hand and a knife in the other. Scrape your knife against the metal
match to produce sparks. The sparks will hit the tinder. When the tinder starts to smolder, proceed as above.

Battery

Use a battery to generate a spark. Use of this method depends on the type of battery available. Attach a wire to each terminal. Touch the ends of the bare wires together next to the tinder so the sparks will ignite it.

Gunpowder

Often, you will have ammunition with your equipment. If so, carefully extract the bullet from the shell casing, and use the gunpowder as tinder. A spark will ignite the powder. Be extremely careful when extracting the bullet from the case.

Primitive Methods

Primitive igniters are those attributed to our early ancestors.

Flint and Steel

The direct spark method is the easiest of the primitive methods to use. The flint and steel method is the most reliable of the direct spark methods. Strike a flint or other hard, sharp-edged rock edge with a piece of carbon steel (stainless steel will not produce a good spark). This method requires a loose-jointed wrist and practice. When a spark has caught in the tinder, blow on it. The spark will spread and burst into flames.

Fire-Plow

The fire-plow (Figure 7-7) is a friction method of ignition. You rub a hardwood shaft against a softer wood base. To use this method, cut a straight groove in the base and plow the blunt tip of the shaft up and down the groove. The plowing action of the shaft pushes out small particles of wood fibers. Then, as you apply more pressure on each stroke, the friction ignites the wood particles.

Bow and Drill

The technique of starting a fire with a bow and drill (Figure 7-8) is simple, but you must exert much effort and be persistent to produce a fire. You need the following items to use this method:

  • Socket. The socket is an easily grasped stone or piece of hardwood or bone with a slight depression in one side. Use it to hold the drill in place and to apply downward pressure.
  • Drill. The drill should be a straight, seasoned hardwood stick about 2 centimeters in diameter and 25 centimeters long. The top end is round and the low end blunt (to produce more friction).
  • Fire board. Its size is up to you. A seasoned softwood board about 2.5 centimeters thick and 10 centimeters wide is preferable. Cut a depression about 2 centimeters from the edge on one side of the board. On the underside, make a V-shaped cut from the edge of the board to the depression.
  • Bow. The bow is a resilient, green stick about 2.5 centimeters in diameter and a string. The type of wood is not important. The bowstring can be any type of cordage. You tie the bowstring from one end of the bow to the other, without any slack.

To use the bow and drill, first prepare the fire lay. Then place a bundle of tinder under the V-shaped cut in the fire board. Place one foot on the fire board. Loop the bowstring over the drill and place the drill in the precut depression on the fire board. Place the socket, held in one hand, on the top of the drill to hold it in position. Press down on the drill and saw the bow back and forth to twirl the drill (Figure 7-8). Once you have established a smooth motion, apply more downward pressure and work the bow faster. This action will grind hot black powder into the tinder, causing a spark to catch. Blow on the tinder until it ignites.

Note: Primitive fire-building methods are exhaustive and require practice to ensure success.

HELPFUL HINTS

  • Use nonaromatic seasoned hardwood for fuel, if possible.
  • Collect kindling and tinder along the trail.
  • Add insect repellent to the tinder.
  • Keep the firewood dry.
  • Dry damp firewood near the fire.
  • Bank the fire to keep the coals alive overnight.
  • Carry lighted punk, when possible.
  • Do not select wood lying on the ground. It may appear to be dry but generally doesn't provide enough friction.
  • Be sure the fire is out before leaving camp.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Ultra High-Speed Photography

sonicbomb.com - Home is where the Heart Isby Ian Brown

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Armed America: Portraits of Gun Owners in Their Homes

Roughly half of all American homes have guns. But, why? Because it is our constitutional right? For protection? For the joy of hunting and sport?

In 2004 after a fractious election in which the gun argument played a significant part, photo-journalist Kyle Cassidy hit the road to learn why so many people owned so many guns. His search for answers took him on a journey that extended over two years and 15,000 miles. Ultimately, more than a hundred gun owners opened their doors and their lives to him, answering the single question he asked: "why".

The result is a collection of striking and thought provoking photographs: ARMED AMERICA: Portraits of Gun Owners in Their Homes

Few issues generate as much debate as firearms. Without taking a pro or con stance, ARMED AMERICA shows the faces of American gun owners and gives voice to each individual "why"...without ancillary comment, editorializing, or judgment. These "everyman" portraits reveal people from different backgrounds, living in various locations, with one common connection.

Reviews:

The Washington Post, July 29, 2007 - "...Each picture in Armed America could be a pro-gun advertisement - or an anti-gun poster. That's what makes the book so riveting."

Guns & Ammo, October 2007 - "Cassidy's genius... vividly captures the subjects' personalities as well as their widely differing views on gun ownership."

The Library Journal, September 1, 2007 - "...stunning photos... You can't finish this book and still make blanket judgments about gun owners."

Field & Stream, David Petzel, 2007 - "What we have here folks, between two covers, is that greatest of rarities, a fair picture of who owns guns."

Videos:

Armed America: Portraits of Gun Owners in Their Homes
The making of Armed America.

Audio Tour of 'Armed America' by Kyle Kassidy
As you view these American portraits, listen to the subjects tell their reasons for gun ownership.

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

The Deer Hunter

I had this great idea that I was going to rope a deer, put it in a stall, fatten it up on corn for a couple of weeks, then kill it and eat it.

The first step in this adventure was getting a deer. I figured that since they congregate at my cattle feeder and do not seem to have much fear of me when I'm there (a bold one will sometimes come right up and sniff at the bags of feed while I am in the back of the truck not four feet a way,) it should not be difficult to rope one, get up to it and toss a bag over its head (to calm it down,) then hog tie it and transport it home.

I filled the cattle feeder then hid down at the end with my rope. The cattle, having seen the roping thing before, stayed well back. They were not having any of it.

After about twenty minutes, my deer showed up -- three of them. I picked out a likely looking one, stepped out from the end of the feeder, and threw my rope. The roped deer just stood there and stared at me.

I wrapped the rope around my waist and twisted the end so I would have a good hold. The deer still just stood and stared at me, but you could tell it was mildly concerned about the whole rope situation.

I took a step towards it. It took a step away. I put a little tension on the rope and then received an education. The first thing that I learned is that, while a deer may just stand there looking at you funny while you rope it, they are spurred to action when you start pulling on that rope.

That deer EXPLODED.

The second thing I learned is that pound for pound, a deer is a LOT stronger than a cow or a colt. A cow or a colt in that weight range I could fight down with a rope and with some dignity. A deer -- no chance.

That thing ran and bucked and twisted and pulled. There was no controlling it and certainly no getting close to it. As it jerked me off my feet and started dragging me across the ground, it occurred to me that having a deer on a rope was not nearly as good an idea as I had originally imagined.

The only upside is that they do not have as much stamina as many other animals. A brief ten minutes later, it was tired and not nearly as quick to jerk me off my feet and drag me when I managed to get up. It took me a few minutes to realize this, since I was mostly blinded by the blood flowing out of the big gash in my head.

At that point, I had lost my taste for corn-fed venison. I just wanted to get that devil creature off the end of that rope.

I figured if I just let it go with the rope hanging around its neck, it would likely die slow and painfully somewhere.

At the time, there was no love at all between me and that deer. At that moment, I hated the thing, and I would venture a guess that the feeling was mutual.

Despite the gash in my head and the several large knots where I had cleverly arrested the deer's momentum by bracing my head against various large rocks as it dragged me across the ground, I could still think clearly enough to recognize that there was a small chance that I shared some tiny amount of responsibility for the situation we were in.

I didn't want the deer to have it suffer a slow death, so I managed to get it lined back up in between my truck and the feeder - a little trap I had set before hand -- kind of like a squeeze chute. I got it to back in there and I started moving up so I could get my rope back.

Did you know that deer bite? They do! I never in a million years would have thought that a deer would bite somebody, so I was very surprised when I reached up there to grab that rope and the deer grabbed hold of my wrist.

Now, when a deer bites you, it is not like being bit by a horse where they just bite you and then let go. A deer bites you and shakes its head -- almost like a pit bull. They bite HARD and it hurts.

The proper thing to do when a deer bites you is probably to freeze and draw back slowly. I tried screaming and shaking instead. My method was ineffective.

It seems like the deer was biting and shaking for several minutes, but it was likely only several seconds.

I, being smarter than a deer (though you may be questioning that claim by now) tricked it.

While I kept it busy tearing the bejesus out of my right arm, I reached up with my left hand and pulled that rope loose. That was when I got my final lesson in deer behavior for the day.

Deer will strike at you with their front feet. They rear right up on their back feet and strike right about head and shoulder level, and their hooves are surprisingly sharp.

I learned a long time ago that, when an animal -- like a horse -- strikes at you with their hooves and you can't get away easily, the best thing to do is try to make a loud noise and make an aggressive move towards the animal. This will usually cause them to back down a bit so you can escape.

This was not a horse. This was a deer, so obviously, such trickery would not work. In the course of a millisecond, I devised a different strategy.

I screamed like a school girl and tried to turn and run.

The reason I had always been told NOT to try to turn and run from a horse that paws at you is that there is a good chance that it will hit you in the back of the head.

Deer may not be so different from horses after all, besides being twice as strong and three times as evil, because the second I turned to run, it hit me right in the back of the head and knocked me down.

Now, when a deer paws at you and knocks you down, it does not immediately leave. I suspect it does not recognize that the danger has passed. What they do instead is paw your back and jump up and down on you while you are laying there crying like a little girl and covering your head.

Finally, I managed to crawl under the truck and the deer went away.

After this ordeal, I understand why people go deer hunting with a rifle and a scope. It's so they can be somewhat equal to the prey.

Saturday, March 15, 2008

The Legend of the Marboro Marine


The few, the proud, the Marines.


One of several CH-46E "Sea Knight" helicopters from HMM-162 (Rein.) touch down at a landing zone to drop off Marines from BLT 2/8 during the first raid. Photo by Cpl. Eric R. Martin.

First in, last out.


Lance Cpl. Jeromy S. Pilon, a 22-year-old native of Spokane, Wash., and an assault man with 3rd Platoon, Company I, 3rd Battalion, 5th Marine Regiment, looks through the sights on his M16A4 rifle for any possible insurgents in Fallujah, Iraq, Dec. 11. Company I, also known as “Diesel,” recently started one of the final pushes through their sector to ensure the safety of Fallujah’s citizens, who are expected to return soon. Photo by Lance Cpl. Miguel A. Carrasco Jr.

One shot, one kill.

This is the stuff that legends are made of. Sadly, unlike fairy tales, legends aren't required to have happy endings. Witness the true account of one man's struggle to reclaim the life he left behind when he came home from war.



The Marlboro Marine, that’s what they called him.

The photo was taken after almost 12 hours of non-stop fighting during one of the bloodiest battles of the Iraq war, the battle of Fallujah. It was published on the front-page of over 150 newspapers and has been republished countless times.

The soldier was Marine Lance Cpl. James Blake Miller and the effects of war were etched clearly on his face.

Miller and his squad had just survived one of the longest nights of their lives, pinned down on a rooftop under heavy enemy fire. The sun was just rising at the end of that long sleepless night, as the young Corporal reached over and lit his first cigarette of the day. Suddenly a camera shutter opened and shut immortalizing the moment.

Lance Cpl. Miller’s photo has become iconic of the war in Iraq. His camouflage smeared, his nose bloodied, and a cigarette dangling from his lips he looks every bit the battle hardened warrior. Yet the look in his eye tells another story. His eyes seem to scream, reflecting the pain of an entire generation and the horrors of war.

On the battlefield, no Marine is left behind but, what happens after they come home? A year after the photo was taken, The Marlboro Marine was honorably discharged from the U.S. Marine Corps, after being diagnosed with a severe case of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD). So what’s next? What happens after the last bullet has been let loose and thousands of miles are put between one and the heat of battle?

The L.A. Times has published a powerful account of life after war for this U.S. legend, with the collaboration of the Times photographer who originally shot the image, Luis Sinco.

Watch it here: Battles After the War

Water Procurement

Jonathan's Run Falls, Pennsylvania. A bit of a hike off of the main Rail trail near Ohiopyle State Park, but well worth it. Photo by Hubert Stoffels.

Water is one of your most urgent needs in a survival situation. You can't live long without it, especially in hot areas where you lose water rapidly through perspiration. Even in cold areas, you need a minimum of 2 liters of water each day to maintain efficiency.

More than three-fourths of your body is composed of fluids. Your body loses fluid as a result of heat, cold, stress, and exertion. To function effectively, you must replace the fluid your body loses. So, one of your first goals is to obtain an adequate supply of water.

Water Sources

Almost any environment has water present to some degree. Figure 6-1 lists possible sources of water in various environments. It also provides information on how to make the water potable.

Note: If you do not have a canteen, a cup, a can, or other type of container, improvise one from plastic or water-resistant cloth. Shape the plastic or cloth into a bowl by pleating it. Use pins or other suitable items--even your hands--to hold the pleats.

If you do not have a reliable source to replenish your water supply, stay alert for ways in which your environment can help you.

CAUTION: Do not substitute the fluids listed in Figure 6-2 for water.

Heavy dew can provide water. Tie rags or tufts of fine grass around your ankles and walk through dewcovered grass before sunrise. As the rags or grass tufts absorb the dew, wring the water into a container. Repeat the process until you have a supply of water or until the dew is gone. Australian natives sometimes mop up as much as a liter an hour this way.

Bees or ants going into a hole in a tree may point to a water-filled hole. Siphon the water with plastic tubing or scoop it up with an improvised dipper. You can also stuff cloth in the hole to absorb the water and then wring it from the cloth.

Water sometimes gathers in tree crotches or rock crevices. Use the above procedures to get the water.

In arid areas, bird droppings around a crack in the rocks may indicate water in or near the crack.

Green bamboo thickets are an excellent source of fresh water. Water from green bamboo is clear and odorless. To get the water, bend a green bamboo stalk, tie it down, and cut off the top (Figure 6-3). The water will drip freely during the night. Old, cracked bamboo may contain water.

CAUTION: Purify the water before drinking it.

Wherever you find banana or plantain trees, you can get water. Cut down the tree, leaving about a 30-centimeter stump, and scoop out the center of the stump so that the hollow is bowl-shaped. Water from the roots will immediately start to fill the hollow. The first three fillings of water will be bitter, but succeeding fillings will be palatable. The stump (Figure 6-4) will supply water for up to four days. Be sure to cover it to keep out insects.

Some tropical vines can give you water. Cut a notch in the vine as high as you can reach, then cut the vine off close to the ground. Catch the dropping liquid in a container or in your mouth (Figure 6-5).

CAUTION: Do not drink the liquid if it is sticky, milky, or bitter tasting.

The milk from green (unripe) coconuts is a good thirst quencher. However, the milk from mature coconuts contains an oil that acts as a laxative. Drink in moderation only.

In the American tropics you may find large trees whose branches support air plants. These air plants may hold a considerable amount of rainwater in their overlapping, thickly growing leaves. Strain the water through a cloth to remove insects and debris.

You can get water from plants with moist pulpy centers. Cut off a section of the plant and squeeze or smash the pulp so that the moisture runs out. Catch the liquid in a container.

Plant roots may provide water. Dig or pry the roots out of the ground, cut them into short pieces, and smash the pulp so that the moisture runs out. Catch the liquid in a container.

Fleshy leaves, stems, or stalks, such as bamboo, contain water. Cut or notch the stalks at the base of a joint to drain out the liquid.

The following trees can also provide water:

  • Palms. Palms, such as the buri, coconut, sugar, rattan, and nips, contain liquid. Bruise a lower frond and pull it down so the tree will "bleed" at the injury.
  • Traveler's tree. Found in Madagascar, this tree has a cuplike sheath at the base of its leaves in which water collects.
  • Umbrella tree. The leaf bases and roots of this tree of western tropical Africa can provide water.
  • Baobab tree. This tree of the sandy plains of northern Australia and Africa collects water in its bottlelike trunk during the wet season. Frequently, you can find clear, fresh water in these trees after weeks of dry weather.

CAUTION: Do not keep the sap from plants longer than 24 hours. It begins fermenting, becoming dangerous as a water source.

STILL CONSTRUCTION

You can use stills in various areas of the world. They draw moisture from the ground and from plant material. You need certain materials to build a still, and you need time to let it collect the water. It takes about 24 hours to get 0.5 to 1 liter of water.

Aboveground Still

To make the aboveground still, you need a sunny slope on which to place the still, a clear plastic bag, green leafy vegetation, and a small rock (Figure 6-6).

To make the still:

  • Fill the bag with air by turning the opening into the breeze or by "scooping" air into the bag.
  • Fill the plastic bag half to three-fourths full of green leafy vegetation. Be sure to remove all hard sticks or sharp spines that might puncture the bag.

CAUTION: Do not use poisonous vegetation. It will provide poisonous liquid.

  • Place a small rock or similar item in the bag.
  • Close the bag and tie the mouth securely as close to the end of the bag as possible to keep the maximum amount of air space. If you have a piece of tubing, a small straw, or a hollow reed, insert one end in the mouth of the bag before you tie it securely. Then tie off or plug the tubing so that air will not escape. This tubing will allow you to drain out condensed water without untying the bag.
  • Place the bag, mouth downhill, on a slope in full sunlight. Position the mouth of the bag slightly higher than the low point in the bag.
  • Settle the bag in place so that the rock works itself into the low point in the bag.

To get the condensed water from the still, loosen the tie around the bag's mouth and tip the bag so that the water collected around the rock will drain out. Then retie the mouth securely and reposition the still to allow further condensation.

Change the vegetation in the bag after extracting most of the water from it. This will ensure maximum output of water.

Belowground Still

To make a belowground still, you need a digging tool, a container, a clear plastic sheet, a drinking tube, and a rock (Figure 6-7).

Select a site where you believe the soil will contain moisture (such as a dry stream bed or a low spot where rainwater has collected). The soil at this site should be easy to dig, and sunlight must hit the site most of the day.

To construct the still:

  • Dig a bowl-shaped hole about 1 meter across and 60 centimeters deep.
  • Dig a sump in the center of the hole. The sump's depth and perimeter will depend on the size of the container that you have to place in it. The bottom of the sump should allow the container to stand upright.
  • Anchor the tubing to the container's bottom by forming a loose overhand knot in the tubing.
  • Place the container upright in the sump.
  • Extend the unanchored end of the tubing up, over, and beyond the lip of the hole.
  • Place the plastic sheet over the hole, covering its edges with soil to hold it in place.
  • Place a rock in the center of the plastic sheet.
  • Lower the plastic sheet into the hole until it is about 40 centimeters below ground level. It now forms an inverted cone with the rock at its apex. Make sure that the cone's apex is directly over your container. Also make sure the plastic cone does not touch the sides of the hole because the earth will absorb the condensed water.
  • Put more soil on the edges of the plastic to hold it securely in place and to prevent the loss of moisture.
  • Plug the tube when not in use so that the moisture will not evaporate.

You can drink water without disturbing the still by using the tube as a straw.

You may want to use plants in the hole as a moisture source. If so, dig out additional soil from the sides of the hole to form a slope on which to place the plants. Then proceed as above.

If polluted water is your only moisture source, dig a small trough outside the hole about 25 centimeters from the still's lip (Figure 6-8). Dig the trough about 25 centimeters deep and 8 centimeters wide. Pour the polluted water in the trough. Be sure you do not spill any polluted water around the rim of the hole where the plastic sheet touches the soil. The trough holds the polluted water and the soil filters it as the still draws it. The water then condenses on the plastic and drains into the container. This process works extremely well when your only water source is salt water.

You will need at least three stills to meet your individual daily water intake needs.

WATER PURIFICATION

Rainwater collected in clean containers or in plants is usually safe for drinking. However, purify water from lakes, ponds, swamps, springs, or streams, especially the water near human settlements or in the tropics.

When possible, purify all water you got from vegetation or from the ground by using iodine or chlorine, or by boiling.

Purify water by:

  • Using water purification tablets. (Follow the directions provided.)
  • Placing 5 drops of 2 percent tincture of iodine in a canteen full of clear water. If the canteen is full of cloudy or cold water, use 10 drops. (Let the canteen of water stand for 30 minutes before drinking.)
  • Boiling water for 1 minute at sea level, adding 1 minute for each additional 300 meters above sea level, or boil for 10 minutes no matter where you are.

By drinking nonpotable water you may contract diseases or swallow organisms that can harm you.

Examples of such diseases or organisms are:

  • Dysentery. Severe, prolonged diarrhea with bloody stools, fever, and weakness.
  • Cholera and typhoid. You may be susceptible to these diseases regardless of inoculations.
  • Flukes. Stagnant, polluted water--especially in tropical areas--often contains blood flukes. If you swallow flukes, they will bore into the bloodstream, live as parasites, and cause disease.
  • Leeches. If you swallow a leech, it can hook onto the throat passage or inside the nose. It will suck blood, create a wound, and move to another area. Each bleeding wound may become infected.

WATER FILTRATION DEVICES

If the water you find is also muddy, stagnant, and foul smelling, you can clear the water:

  • By placing it in a container and letting it stand for 12 hours.
  • By pouring it through a filtering system.

Note: These procedures only clear the water and make it more palatable. You will have to purify it.

To make a filtering system, place several centimeters or layers of filtering material such as sand, crushed rock, charcoal, or cloth in bamboo, a hollow log, or an article of clothing (Figure 6-9).

Remove the odor from water by adding charcoal from your fire. Let the water stand for 45 minutes before drinking it.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Friday, March 14, 2008

3 Really Good Reasons for Learning to Speak Japanese



#3. It's fun to speak a language few Americans understand.


Waitress Watching

Kennny and Taro sit in trendy Omotesando cafe. Waitress Kato-san is bending over in a miniskirt serving drinks.

TARO: Kyo wa mechakomi dane. Keiko to Sharon to Nigel suare-nai na.

KENNY: Konderu hoga mabui suke ni ataru kakuritsu mo takai yo.

TARO: Dasai onna bakari jan ka.

KATO: O-mataseshimashita.

KENNY: Kato Chikado-san, O-hisa desune. Genki?

Dialogue in English

TARO: Man, this place is packed like sardines. Keoko, Sharon and Nigel won't have a place to sit.

KENNY: It's better this way, more broads per square foot.

TARO: Yeah, but what if they're all ugly?

KATO: Sorry to keep you waiting!

KENNY: Hey Chikako baby, it's been a while... how are you?



#2. If you ask in Japanese, a Japanese sushi chef will often treat you to new and exciting dishes.



And the best reason to learn to speak Japanese?


#1. It's good to really understand what's being said in Japanese films with English subtitles.


If you enjoyed this article, you might also like (from the same series):

3 Really Good Reasons for Learning to Speak German

O-cha shinai?

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

7 Samurai

The word samurai is derived from the archaic Japanese verb samorau, meaning "to serve."









Light 'em if ya got 'em.

Show Me the Way to Go Gnome


A town in South America is living in fear after several sightings of a 'creepy gnome' that locals claim stalks the streets at night.

The midget - which wears a pointy hat and has a distinctive sideways walk - was caught on video last week by a terrified group of youngsters.

Teenager Jose Alvarez - who filmed the gnome - yesterday told national newspaper El Tribuno that they caught the creature while larking about in their hometown of General Guemes, in the province of Salta, Argentina.

He said: “We were chatting about our last fishing trip. It was one in the morning.

“I began to film a bit with my mobile phone while the others were chatting and joking.

"Suddenly we heard something - a weird noise as if someone was throwing stones.

"We looked to one side and saw that the grass was moving. To begin with we thought it was a dog but when we saw this gnome-like figure begin to emerge we were really afraid."

Jose added that other locals had come forward to say they had spotted the gnome.

He said: “This is no joke. We are still afraid to go out - just like everyone else in the neighbourhood now.

"One of my friends was so scared after seeing that thing that we had to take him to the hospital.”

Creepy Gnome Identified

When questioned about the sighting in General Guemes, the Travelocity gnome reportedly admitted to being involved in the incident by saying,



"Oh, dear! I didn't mean to frighten anyone... I was simply on vacation."

Monday, March 10, 2008

Leupold Custom Shop


Personalization You´re not asking for much …
you just want things how you want them. Say a fire-engine red riflescope with blue splatters to match the laminate stock of your new custom silhouette rifle. Or, maybe you just like the look of a 24k Golden Ring® and Leupold medallion. In other words, you don´t have to buy just any Leupold riflescope… create your own unique Leupold, at the Leupold Custom Shop. Pick a new finish. Personalize a riflescope for yourself or as a gift with custom engraving. And keep a running tally of your modifications and cost the entire time. You can even save your creation, and come back later to make more changes. Every Leupold is next to perfect out of the box. Create the one that´s perfect for you at Leupold Custom Shop.



Click image to enlarge.


Sunday, March 9, 2008

The 10 Commandments of Counterintelligence


A Never-Ending Necessity
The 10 Commandments of Counterintelligence
by James M. Olson

This article appeared in Studies of Intelligence, Unclassified Edition, Fall-Winter 2001, No.11, published by the CIA’s Center for the Study of Intelligence. The Center seeks to promote study, debate, and understanding of the role of intelligence in the American system of government. Mr. Olson served in the Central Intelligence Agency’s Directorate of Operations and is presently on the faculty of the George Bush School of Government and Public Service at Texas A&M University.

“O that thou hadst hearkened to my commandments! Then had thy peace been as a river, and thy righteousness as the waves of the sea.” Isaiah 48:18

The need for counterintelligence (CI) has not gone away, nor is it likely to. The end of the Cold War has not even meant an end to the CI threat from the former Soviet Union. The foreign intelligence service of the new democratic Russia, the Sluzhba Vneshney Razvedki Rossii (SVRR), has remained active against us. It was the SVRR that took over the handling of Aldrich Ames from its predecessor, the KGB, in 1991. It was the SVRR that ran CIA officer Harold James Nicholson against us from 1994 to 1996. It was the SVRR that was handling FBI special agent Earl Pitts when he was arrested for espionage in 1996. It was the SVRR that planted a listening device in a conference room of the State Department in Washington in the summer of 1999. And it was the SVRR that was handling FBI special agent Robert Hanssen when he was arrested on charges of espionage in February 2001.

The Russians are not alone. There have been serious, well-publicized concerns about Chinese espionage in the United States. The Department of Energy significantly increased security at its national laboratories in response to allegations that China had stolen US nuclear weapons secrets.

Paul Redmond, the former Associate Deputy Director of Operations for Counterintelligence at the CIA, told the House Permanent Select Committee on Intelligence in early 2000 that a total of at least 41 countries are trying to spy on the United States. Besides mentioning Russia, China, and Cuba, he also cited several “friends,” including France, Greece, Indonesia, Israel, the Philippines, South Korea, and Taiwan. He warned of a pervasive CI threat to the United States.

The United States, as the world’s only remaining superpower, will be the constant target of jealousies, resentments, rivalries, and challenges to its economic well-being, security, and leadership in the world. This inevitably means that the United States will be the target of large-scale foreign espionage.

A Choice Assignment

When I joined the CIA, one of my first interim assignments was with the old CI Staff. I found it fascinating. I was assigned to write a history of the Rote Kapelle, the Soviet espionage network in Nazi-occupied Western Europe during World War II.

With its expanded computer power, NSA was breaking out the actual messages sent between the NKVD center in Moscow and the clandestine radios of the various cells in Western Europe. Incredibly, these messages came to me.

There I was, a brand new junior officer, literally the first person in the CIA to see the day-to-day traffic from these life-and-death operations. I was deeply affected by the fear, heroism, and drama in these messages. Above all, I felt privileged to have been given such an opportunity.

Building on an earlier study of the Rote Kapelle by the CI Staff, I completed a draft several months later that incorporated the new material. To my great surprise, this study was well received by my immediate superiors, and I was told that I was to be rewarded with a personal interview and congratulations from James Jesus Angleton, the legendary head of the CI Staff from 1954 to 1974.

Angleton’s office was on the second floor of the Original Headquarters Building. I was first ushered into an outer office, where Angleton’s aides briefed me on how to conduct myself. And then I went alone into the inner sanctum.

The room was dark, the curtains were drawn, and there was just one small lamp on Angleton’s desk. I later heard that Angleton had eye trouble and that the light hurt his eyes, but I was convinced the real reason for the semidarkness was to add to his mystique. It certainly worked on me!

I nervously briefed Angleton on my study, and he listened without interrupting, just nodding from time to time. When I finished, he methodically attacked every one of my conclusions. Didn’t I know the traffic was a deception? Hadn’t it occurred to me that Leopold Trepper, the leader of the Rote Kapelle, was a German double? He went on and on, getting further and further out.

Even I, as a brand new officer, could tell that this great mind, this CI genius, had lost it. I thought he was around the bend. It was one of the most bizarre experiences of my career.

When the meeting was over, I was glad to get out of there, and I vowed to myself that I would never go anywhere near CI again. I did not keep that vow. In my overseas assignments with the Agency, I found myself drawn toward Soviet CI operations. Nothing seemed to quicken my pulse more, and I was delighted when I was called back to Headquarters in 1989 to join the new Counterintelligence Center (CIC) as Ted Price’s deputy. When Ted moved upstairs in early 1991 to become the Associate Deputy Director for Operations, I was named chief of the Center.

Today, many years after that initial disagreeable encounter with CI, I find it hard to believe that it is actually my picture on the wall of the CIC conference room at CIA Headquarters, where the photos of all former CIA counterintelligence chiefs are displayed. There I am, number seven in a row that begins with Angleton.

So, after a career that ended up being far more CI-oriented than I could ever have imagined, I would like to offer some personal observations in the form of "The 10 Commandments of Counterintelligence." I have chosen the form of commandments because I believe the basic rules of CI are immutable and should be scrupulously followed. In my view, it makes little difference whether the adversary is the Russians, the Cubans, the East Germans, the Chinese, or someone else. It likewise makes little difference whether we are talking about good CI practices in 1985 or in 2005. Unfortunately, as I watch US CI today, I am increasingly concerned that the principles I consider fundamental to effective CI are not being followed as carefully and consistently as they should be.

These commandments were not handed down to me from a mountaintop, and I make no claim that they are inspired or even definitive. They are simply the culmination, for what they are worth, of my experience. They are intended primarily for my fellow practitioners in CI today, but also for any younger officers in the Intelligence Community (IC) who might someday want to join us.



The First Commandment: Be Offensive

CI that is passive and defensive will fail. We cannot hunker down in a defensive mode and wait for things to happen. I believe we are spending far too much money on fences, safes, alarms, and other purely defensive measures to protect our secrets. That is not how we have been hurt in recent years. Spies have hurt us. Our CI mindset should be relentlessly offensive. We need to go after our CI adversaries.

Aggressive double agent (DA) operations are essential to any CI program, but not the predictable, hackneyed kind we have so often pursued. We need to push our bright and imaginative people to produce clever new scenarios for controlled operations, and we need more of them. The opposition services should be kept constantly off guard so that they never suspect that we have actually controlled the operations they believe they initiated from the beginning. When the requirements, modus operandi, and personality objectives of the DA operation have been achieved, we should in a greater number of cases pitch the opposition case officer. If only one out of 10 or 20 of these recruitments takes, it is worth it. And CI professionals, of course, should not rely exclusively on their own efforts. They should constantly prod their HUMINT colleagues to identify, target, and recruit officers from the opposition intelligence services. The key to CI success is penetration. For every American spy, there are several members of the opposition service who know who he or she is. No matter what it takes, we have to have penetrations.

We should operate aggressively against the nontraditional as well as the traditional adversaries. How many examples do we need of operations against Americans by so-called friendly countries to convince us that the old intelligence adage is correct: there are friendly nations, but no friendly intelligence services? If we suspect for whatever reason that the operatives of a foreign intelligence service, friend or foe, are operating against us, we should test them. We should dress up an enticing morsel, made to order for that specific target, and send it by them. If they take it, we have learned something we needed to know, and we have an operation. If they reject it, as true friends should, we have learned something, too. In either event, because we are testing a “friend,” plausible deniability has to be strictly preserved. Every foreign service is a potential nontraditional adversary; no service should get a lifetime pass from US offensive CI operations.



The Second Commandment: Honor Your Professionals

It has been true for years, to varying degrees throughout the IC, that CI professionals have not been favored, to the extent they deserved, with promotions, assignments, awards, praise, esteem, or other recognition. The truth is that CI officers are not popular. They are not always welcome when they walk in. They usually bring bad news. They are easy marks to criticize when things go wrong. Their successes are their failures. If they catch a spy, they are roasted for having taken so long. If they are not catching anyone, why not? What have they done with all that money they spent on CI? It is no-win.

For much of my career, many of our best people avoided becoming CI specialists. CI was not prestigious. It had a bad reputation. It was not fast track. It did not lead to promotions or good assignments. Angleton left a distasteful legacy that for years discredited the CI profession. Ted Price did more than anyone else in the Agency to reverse that trend and to rehabilitate CI as a respected professional discipline.

Nevertheless, that battle is still not completely won. We have to do more to get our CI people promoted, recognized, and respected so that our best young officers will be attracted to follow us into what we know is a noble profession and where the need is so great.



The Third Commandment: Own the Street

This is so fundamental to CI, but it is probably the least followed of the commandments. Any CI program worthy of the name has to be able to engage the opposition on the street, the field of play for espionage. And when we do go to the street, we have to be the best service there. If we are beaten on the street, it is worse than not having been there at all.

For years, we virtually conceded the streets of the world’s capitals, including the major espionage centers, to the KGB, the GRU, and the East European services because we either did not know how to do it or we were not willing to pay the price for a thoroughly professional, reliable, full-time, local surveillance capability.

Opposition intelligence officers have to be watched, known meeting areas have to be observed, and, when an operation goes down—often on short notice— undetectable surveillance has to cover it, identify the participants, and obtain evidence.

This capability is expensive—selection, training, vehicles, photo gear, video, radios, safe apartments, observation posts, and on and on—but, if we do not have it, we will be a second-rate CI service and will not break the major cases.



The Fourth Commandment: Know Your History

I am very discouraged when I talk to young CI officers today to find how little they know about the history of American CI. CI is a difficult and dangerous discipline. Many good, well-meaning CI people have gone wrong and made horrendous mistakes. Their failures in most cases are well documented, but the lessons are lost if our officers do not read the CI literature.

I find it inconceivable that any CI practitioner today could ply his or her trade without an in-depth knowledge of the Angleton era. Have our officers read Mangold? Have they read Legend and Wilderness of Mirrors? Do they know the Loginov case, HONETOL, MHCHAOS, Nosenko, Pollard, and Shadrin? Are they familiar with Aspillaga and the Cuban DA debacle? Have they examined our mistakes in the Ames and Howard cases? Are they staying current with recent releases like The Mitrokhin Archive and The Haunted Wood?

I believe it is an indispensable part of the formation of any American CI officer—and certainly a professional obligation—to study the CI failures of the past, to reflect on them, and to make sure they are not repeated.

The many CI courses being offered now are a positive step, but there will never be a substitute for a personal commitment on the part of our CI professionals to read their history, usually on their own time at home.



The Fifth Commandment: Do Not Ignore Analysis

Analysis has too often been the stepchild of CI. Throughout the CI community, we have fairly consistently understaffed it. We have sometimes tried to make it up as we go along. We have tried to do it on the cheap.

Generally speaking, operators make bad analysts. We are different kinds of people. Operators are actors, doers, movers and shakers; we are quick, maybe a little impulsive, maybe a little "cowboy." Our best times are away from our desks. We love the street. Research and analysis is really not our thing—and when we have tried to do it, we have not been good at it.

True analysts are different. They love it. They are more cerebral, patient, and sedentary. They find things we could not. They write better.

A lot of CI programs in the past have tried to make operators double as their own analysts. As a result, in the United States, CI analysis historically has been the weakest part of the business. Professional CI analysts have been undervalued and underappreciated.

A good CI program will recruit and train true analysts in sizable numbers. I do not think it would be excessive as a rule of thumb in a top notch CI service to be evenly divided between operators and analysts. Very few of our US CI agencies come anywhere close to that ratio.

Wonderful things happen when good analysts in sufficient numbers pore over our DA reports, presence lists, SIGINT, audio and teltap transcripts, maps, travel data, and surveillance reports. They find the clues, make the connections, and focus our efforts in the areas that will be most productive.

Many parts of the US CI community have gotten the message and have incorporated trained analysts into their operations, but others have not. Across the board, we still have serious shortfalls in good, solid CI analysis.



The Sixth Commandment: Do Not Be Parochial

More harm probably has been done to US CI over the years by interagency sniping and obstruction than by our enemies. I remember when the CIA and the FBI did not even talk to each other—and both had disdain for the military services. It is no wonder that CI was a shambles and that some incredibly damaging spies went uncovered for so long.

Occasionally in my career, I encountered instances of sarcasm or outright bad mouthing of other US Government agencies by my officers. That kind of attitude and cynicism infected our junior officers and got in the way of cooperation. These comments often were intended to flaunt our supposed "superiority" by demeaning the capabilities of the other organizations. I dealt with these situations by telling the officers to "knock it off," and I would encourage other CI supervisors around the community to do the same.

CI is so difficult, even in the best of circumstances, that the only way to do it is together. We should not let personalities, or jealousies, or turf battles get in the way of our common mission. Our colleagues in our sister services are as dedicated, professional, hardworking, and patriotic as we are, and they deserve our respect and cooperation. The best people I have known in my career have been CI people, regardless of their organizational affiliation. So let’s be collegial.



The Seventh Commandment: Train Your People

CI is a distinct discipline and an acquired skill. It is not automatically infused in us when we get our wings as case officers. It is not just a matter of applying logic and common sense to operations, but is instead a highly specialized way of seeing things and analyzing them. CI has to be learned.

I do not know how many times in my career I have heard, "No, we do not really need a separate CI section. We are all CI officers; we’ll do our own CI." That is a recipe for compromise and failure.

There is no substitute for a professional CI officer, and only extensive, regular, and specialized CI training can produce them. Such training is expensive, so whenever possible we should do it on a community basis to avoid duplication and to ensure quality.

CI is a conglomerate of several disciplines and skills. A typical operation, for example, might include analysts, surveillance specialists, case officers, technical experts, and DA specialists. Each area requires its own specialized training curriculum. It takes a long time to develop CI specialists, and that means a sustained investment in CI training. We are getting better, but we are not there yet.



The Eighth Commandment: Do Not Be Shoved Aside

There are people in the intelligence business and other groups in the US Government who do not particularly like CI officers. CI officers have a mixed reputation. We see problems everywhere. We can be overzealous. We get in the way of operations. We cause headaches. We are the original "black hatters."

Case officers want their operations to be bona fide. Senior operations managers do not want to believe that their operations are controlled or penetrated by the opposition. There is a natural human tendency on the part of both case officers and senior operations managers to resist outside CI scrutiny. They believe that they are practicing good CI themselves and do not welcome being second-guessed or told how to run their operations by so-called CI specialists who are not directly involved in the operations. I have seen far more examples or this in my CI career than I care to remember.

By the same token, defense and intelligence contractors and bureaucrats running sensitive US Government programs have too often tended to minimize CI threats and to resist professional CI intervention. CI officers, in their view, stir up problems and overreact to them. Their "successes" in preventing CI problems are invisible and impossible to measure, but their whistle blowing when problems are uncovered generate tremendous heat. It is not surprising that they are often viewed as a net nuisance.

When necessary, a CI service has to impose itself on the organizations and groups it is assigned to protect. A CI professional who is locked out or invited in only when it is convenient to the host cannot do his job.

My advice to my CI colleagues has always been this: "If you are blocked by some senior, obtuse, anti-CI officer, go around him or through him by going to higher management. And document all instances of denied access, lack of cooperation, or other obstruction to carrying out your CI mission. If not, when something goes wrong, as it likely will in that kind of situation, you in CI will take the blame."



The Ninth Commandment: Do Not Stay Too Long

CI is a hazardous profession. There should be warning signs on the walls: "A steady diet of CI can be dangerous to your health."

I do not believe anyone should make an entire, uninterrupted career of CI. We all who work in CI have seen it: the old CI hand who has gotten a bit spooky. It is hard to immerse oneself daily in the arcane and twisted world of CI without falling pray eventually to creeping paranoia, distortion, warping, and overzealousness in one’s thinking. It is precisely these traits that led to some of the worst CI disasters in our history. Angleton and his coterie sadly succumbed, with devastating results. Others in the CIA and elsewhere have as well. The danger is always there.

My wife, who was working at the CIA when I met her, was well acquainted with this reputation of CI and the stories about its practitioners. When I was serving overseas and received the cable offering me the position as Ted Price’s deputy in the new Counterintelligence Center, I discussed it with her that evening at home. Her response, I thought was right on the mark: "Okay, but do not stay too long."

Sensible and productive CI needs lots of ventilation and fresh thinking. There should be constant flowthrough. Non-CI officers should be brought in regularly on rotational tours. I also believe it is imperative that a good CI service build in rotational assignments periodically outside CI for its CI specialists. They should go spend two or three years with the operators or with the other groups they are charged to protect. They will come back refreshed, smarter, and less likely to fall into the nether world of professional CI: the school of doublethink, the us-against-them mindset, the nothing-is-what-it-seems syndrome, the wilderness of mirrors.



The Tenth Commandment: Never Give Up

The tenth and last commandment is the most important. What if the Ames mole hunters had quit after eight years instead of going into the ninth? What if, in my own experience, we had discontinued a certain surveillance operation after five months instead of continuing into the sixth? CI history is full of such examples.

The FBI is making cases against Americans today that involved espionage committed in the 1960s and 1970s. The Army’s Foreign Counterintelligence Activity is doing the same. The name of the game in CI is persistence. CI officers who are not patient need not apply. There is no statute of limitations for espionage, and we should not create one by our own inaction. Traitors should know that they will never be safe and will never have a peaceful night’s sleep. I applauded my CI colleagues in the FBI when I read not long ago of their arrest in Florida of a former US Army Reserve colonel for alleged espionage against the United States many years earlier. They obviously never gave up.

If we keep a CI investigation alive and stay on it, the next defector, the next penetration, the next tip, the next surveillance, or the next clue will break it for us.

If there were ever to be a mascot for US counterintelligence, it should be the pit bull.


In Conclusion

These are my 10 commandments of CI. Other CI professionals will have their own priorities and exhortations and will disagree with mine. That is as it should be, because as a country and as an Intelligence Community we need a vigorous debate on the future direction of US CI. Not everyone will agree with the specifics, or even the priorities. What we should agree on, however, is that strong CI has to be a national priority.

Saturday, March 8, 2008

16 Scandals: American Double Agents


Click image to enlarge 8x11 poster. (1.43 Mb)


In the early stages of its existence, the National Counterintelligence Center, now known as the Office of the National Counterintelligence Executive (ONCIX), produced its first security and counterintelligence awareness poster, "One Evil," featuring the pictures of seven convicted spies and a quote from George Washington.

In the ensuing years, the number of convicted spies has increased, notwithstanding Washington's admonition that "There is one evil I dread, and that is, their spies. I could wish, therefore, the most attentive watch be kept..." With this in mind, the ONCIX has updated and reissued the poster. Combined with the "One Evil," the new poster identifies a number of convicted spies in the post-Aldrich Ames era. It features:

  1. James Nicholson, CIA.
  2. Johnathan J. Pollard, Navy. Incarcerated for life.
  3. Ana Belen Montes, Defense Intelligence Agency (DIA.) Most senior spy for Cuba ever caught.
  4. George Trofimoff, Army.
  5. David S. Boone, Army. Incarcerated for 24 years.
  6. Edward Howard, CIA.
  7. John Walker, Navy.
  8. Ronald W. Pelton, NSA. Incarcerated for life.
  9. Earl E. Pitts, FBI. Incarcerated for 27 years.
  10. Robert Hanssen, FBI. Definately a "10." Hassen did more double agent damage than any other spy listed here.
  11. Aldrich H. Ames, CIA. Incarcerated for life, without parole.
  12. Jerry A. Witworth, Navy. Incarcerated for 365 years.
  13. Jeffrey Carney, Air Force.
  14. Christopher J. Boyce, TRW. Incarcerated for 68 years.
  15. Philip Agee, CIA.
  16. Clyde Conrad, Army.

The Putin Era In Historical Perspective

President Vladimir Putin of the Russian Federation

Summary

Participants in a November 15, 2006 conference sponsored by the National Intelligence Council broadly agreed that Russia has never developed a capitalist culture or the institutional structure of a modern capitalist state; that Russians historically have believed that autocracy is the only viable system for their country because it is too large and ethnically diverse to survive intact under any other form of rule; and that being a great power is a central part of Russia’s historical identity. Given the continuity of these long-held attitudes, change in Russia probably will come only when a leader is willing to confront and transcend the roots of this historical legacy, which the Putin administration is unlikely to do.

Russia has never had legally enforceable property rights, an essential feature of a functioning capitalist society. For centuries, property rights and business associations have existed in limbo, enjoying no legal status or protection. Instead, the principle of kormleniye—currying favor with the leaders to protect one’s property—has prevailed.

The continuation of these practices under Putin presents an impediment to economic development. A small group of Putin’s close allies occupy the commanding heights of the economy, driving growth through natural resource extraction and enjoying privileges through kormleniye. The lack of a firm dividing line between public and private, and the symbiosis of state and organized crime elements, are a real danger to long-term prosperity.

Most Russians fear the disorder that many believe would result from a more open, pluralistic system. The system historically has been stable because some form of authoritarianism is the default mode, and opportunistic attempts to introduce more freedom have been the exception.

Compared to other imperial collapses, the Soviet disintegration was relatively orderly and non-violent. Bereft of its former empire, Russia still aspires to be a great power and to be respected as such.

Participants disagreed over whether Russia had developed an identity as a post-imperial power. They did agree, however, that Russia is increasingly is using tougher forms of “soft power” in dealing with its neighbors.

Introduction

The National Intelligence Council and the Department of State’s Bureau of Intelligence and Research held a conference entitled, The Putin Era in Historical Perspective, on 15 November 2006. The goal of the conference was to examine the historical roots of the current Russian political and economic system—one in which an increasingly authoritarian state has recaptured the commanding heights of the economy, where capitalism has developed through a symbiotic relationship between political and economic elites, and the Kremlin is pursing a more assertive foreign policy. Conference speakers were experts on Russian history: Professors Richard Pipes (Harvard), Stefan Hedlund (Uppsala University). Thomas Owen (Harvard), Stephen Kotkin (Princeton), Marshall Poe (The Atlantic Monthly), Nigel Raab (Loyola Marymount), Eric Lohr (American University), Dominic Lieven (London School of Economics), Ronald Suny (University of Chicago), and Arnold Horelick (RAND).

Saint Petersburg, Russia.

State Capitalism: The Long View

Participants agreed that Russia has never developed either a capitalist culture or the institutional structure of a modern capitalist state. Since the 15th century, the Russian state has controlled land, natural resources, and labor. The notion of private property only emerged in 1785 and, even today, only 24 percent of Russians consider the protection of private property a fundamental right, while a majority believes that natural resources should be controlled by the state.

Russia never has had legally enforceable property rights, an essential feature of a functioning capitalist society. For centuries, property rights and business associations have existed in limbo, enjoying no legal status or protection. This resulted in a system that, at its heart, lacked accountability.

Where there are no institutions that can call an autocrat to account, property rights are always conditional upon one’s personal influence with the autocrat. Throughout the centuries, under both the Tsars and the Soviets, the principle of kormleniye—currying (and purchasing) favor with the leaders to protect one’s property—has prevailed, but kormleniye is conditional and can always be revoked.

Citizens have never had access to the institutionalized means by which they could hold their autocratic leaders accountable. The business elite has never had a political party to represent its interests and has often been stigmatized because of its wealth.

Russia has long been suspicious of foreign involvement in its economy. During the Tsarist era, foreign businessmen would win concessions and present detailed plans to the government for developing natural resources, only to have the state revoke the concession and have Russians appropriate the foreign business plans.

Participants agreed that, under Putin, many of these traditional features have resurfaced, and present an impediment to long-term economic development.

Russia’s current growth—largely based on high energy prices—has not stimulated sufficient demand for contracts and property rights. A small group of Putin’s close colleagues occupy the commanding heights of the economy, driving growth through natural resource extraction. They enjoy privileges through kormleniye as well as increasingly through excluding foreign companies after allowing them to do much of the initial investment work in energy projects.

There is too much room for arbitrariness in the economy. The current tax system leaves people in limbo, with the rights of the state always superior to the rights of the individual. The tax police do not act as impartial professional auditors, but maraud in black ski masks and intimidate businessmen.

Government-business relations in the late Tsarist period, however, could serve as a positive model for today’s Russia, as high officials were prohibited from holding business positions. Novgorod, returning to its historical roots as a trade city, remains an encouraging example of what is possible in Russia. Its political and business leaders are seeking to become a model of transparency and honesty in dealings with Western investors.

One presenter argued that Russia will change the way its economy is structured only when the rest of the world finds a cheap, widely available alternative to fossil fuels. As it is, this presenter contended, Russia is seeking to imitate Asian models of capitalist development and could easily continue to enjoy high rates of growth, as has China, without introducing rule of law, independent judiciary or property rights.

Other experts contend, however, that even a modest decline in energy prices could help spur economic reform and diversification, and that Asian models of development are not readily applicable to Russia, whose economy is significantly more dependent on resource-extractive industries.

President George W. Bush of the United States and President Vladimir Putin of Russia, exchange handshakes Thursday, June 7, 2007, after their meeting at the G8 Summit in Heiligendamm, Germany. White House photo by Eric Draper.

Managing Society From the Top Down

Conference presenters agreed that, since the 16th century, many Russians have regarded autocracy as the most viable government for their country because it is too large, populous and ethnically diverse to survive intact under any other form of rule. Although many states have experienced centuries of autocracy, what is unique is that Russia maintained its autocracy while more democratic governments developed around it.

The Russian elite traditionally has feared the disorder (bezporyadok) and state collapse that would, they believe, result from a more pluralistic system. Even today, polls show that 85% of respondents claim that order (proyadok) is more important than freedom. Russians also prefer a truly grozny (awe-inspiring) leader.

The system is historically stable, because some form of authoritarianism is the default mode and opportunistic attempts to introduce more freedom have been the exception. Putin inherited a state shaped by five centuries of predatory, militarized, centralized statism and government for the elite by the elite; a large, untrustworthy, ineffectual bureaucracy; an amorphous, atomized, dispirited society; a poorly-structured economy; and a fracture empire with large fissures, much of which is beyond Moscow’s ability to control. Putin understands that the tools he has at his disposal have failed every time a Russian leader has tried to effect change deliberately.

Presenters did identify some precedents for greater pluralism and burgeoning civil society in Russia. In the late imperial period, non-state activity—in the form of charitable associations and volunteer fire departments—grew as Russia urbanized. Ultimately, however, all of the organizations sought the state’s protection, allowing themselves to be co-opted in return for state assistance.

Participants agreed that a primary task is to identify what is useable in a positive sense in Russian history—for instance, high literacy rates, high standards of education and prowess in science, and the relative success of interethnic relations.

One speaker expressed concern that roughly one-third of Russian youth express support for “skinhead” values. Whereas it once was thought that the youth would be the vanguard of liberalism, increasingly it appears that they are more inclined toward fascism.

Then newly-decorated Hall of St Andrew in the Grand Kremlin Palace, watercolour, 1849.

Dealing with Lost Empire

Presenters agreed that being a great power is a central part of Russia’s historical identity. Russians traditionally have confused size with greatness and today this means that retaining whatever is left of the empire—namely the Russian Federation—is a key Kremlin goal. The quest for great power status always has coexisted with an inferiority complex manifested in an overreaction to perceived foreign slights, lest the country appear weak. Today, this has created expectations of power and respect and the responsibilities of empire without the resources, in a world where Russia continues to struggle to maintain its status.

Russia’s leaders’ perceptions of weakness and insecurity—both domestically and in the international arena, given Russia’s huge population, geographic location, and borders that are difficult to defend—have driven and distorted Russian foreign policy for centuries.

Managing the transition from empire to nation state has been difficult for all previous empires. This is especially true for those that are land-based rather than maritime, because land empires have more integrated economies, greater difficulties in shedding the burdens of empire given physical contiguity, no clear distinctions between the metropolis and the colonies and thus little ‘state” affinity. Compared to other imperial collapses, the relative lack of disorder and violence in the wake of the USSR’s disintegration is remarkable.

The USSR’s collapse is not comparable to the end of the Austro-Hungarian or Ottoman empires because Russia does not face or accept the options they had—being taken over by another power or voluntarily accepting less than great power status.

Presenters disagreed about Russia’s identity as a post-imperial power. One speaker argued that Russians know who they are, based in large part on their strong military-patriotic tradition and their rich culture. Another argued that, with the dissolution of the USSR, Russia lost its identity and empire at the same time and has yet to redefine it. Another speculated that, given Russia’s imperial history and fragmented identity, it is difficult to define national interests, generating fear that change could undermine or destroy the state.

Putin is a state-builder, not a nation-builder, who has restored order, maintained Russia’s territorial integrity, aspired to regain great power status, but has decided to work within the existing international system because he recognizes Russia’s weakness. He is a patriot, not a nationalist, craves order for the public good, and tries to avoid foreign policy defeats because he recognizes they weaken foreign policy in general.

Putin is willing to use “hard” soft power, such as border closures, deportations and other measures short of military force, to achieve his goals. But Putin’s Russia is not an empire, because it does not rely on the perception that the center can dictate to its subjects. Russia retains imperial pretensions in some areas, but its “near abroad” policy mostly reflects a desire to remain the dominant power in the region.

Participants agreed that Russian’s collective memory and culture argue against a transformation into something different in the next few decades. Change will come only when a leader is willing to tackle crime and corruption and scale back great power ambitions. Russian society today is depoliticized and dissocialized and there is little impetus for change from below at this time.


A dismanteled statue of Vladimir Lenin heads downstream.


Source: National Intelligence Council Conference Report, February 2007

The views expressed are those of individuals and do not represent official US intelligence or policy positions. The National Intelligence Council routinely sponsors such unclassified conferences with outside experts to gain knowledge and insight to sharpen the level of debate on critical issues.

Download a copy of this report (as above, with covers):

The Putin Era In Historical Perspective, PDF (245 KB)

Friday, March 7, 2008

Shakespeare in Gaza


Rahimat and Juditha


Two households, both alike in dignity,
In fair Palestine, where we lay our scene,
From ancient grudge break to new mutiny,
Where civil blood makes civil hands unclean.
From forth the fatal loins of these two foes
A pair of star-cross'd lovers take their life;
Whole misadventured piteous overthrows
Do with their death bury their parents' strife.
The fearful passage of their death-mark'd love,
And the continuance of their parents' rage,
Which, but their children's end, nought could remove,
Is now the two hours' traffic of our stage;
The which if you with patient ears attend,
What here shall miss, our toil shall strive to mend.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

"Light Fifty"


Toilet Hack


Hack your toilet for free water. Install a sink to the top of a toilet bowl. Use the clean refill water to wash your hands before it goes down the drain.

For hot water, add an on-demand water heater to the line.

See this sink at SinkPositive.com. Made in the USA.

Logic 101

Tetra Hemigrammus Erythrozonus, Glowlight Tetra

  • There are 5 houses in five different colors.
  • They are lined up in a row side by side.
  • In each house lives a person with a different nationality.
  • These 5 owners drink a certain drink, smoke a certain brand of tobacco and keep a certain pet.
  • No owners have the same pet, smoke the same tobacco, or drink the same drink.

Who owns the fish?

  • The Brit lives in the red house.
  • The Swede keeps dogs as pets.
  • The Dane drinks tea.
  • As you look at the 5 houses from across the street, the green house is adjacent to the left of the white house.
  • The green house owner drinks coffee.
  • The person who smokes Pall Mall raises birds.
  • The owner of the yellow house smokes Dunhill.
  • The man living in the house right in the center drinks milk.
  • The Norwegian lives in the first house.
  • The man who smokes Blends lives next to the one who keeps cats.
  • The man who keeps horses lives next to the one who smokes Dunhill.
  • The owner who smokes Bluemaster drinks juice.
  • The German smokes Prince.
  • The Norwegian lives next to the blue house.
  • The man who smokes Blend has a neighbor who drinks water.

Post solution to comments.

Pets: Survival & Survival Kits

7 Tips to Keep Your Pet Safe During a Disaster

Dogs, cats, horses, etc., could be very scared during a disaster. After some disasters, pets should be tied up, put into a crate, or kept in a closed section of the house until they can be calm enough to not run away out of fear. Some situations may warrant keeping them under "protective custody" for an extended period. There could be broken glass, live electrical wires, and spoiled food out there - just to name a few dangers.

An open jar of mayonnaise is one example of a "tasty" threat to your cat or dog. It only takes a few hours for this to become lethal. It is a good idea to keep a bottle of ipecac syrup on hand to deal with this or other poisons. Just a little ipecac syrup spooned into the pet's throat will cause him to vomit out the poison.

Pets that are easily stressed might need tranquilizers, so you may want to talk to your veterinarian about getting some in advance. If your veterinarian does not want to let you get regular pet tranquilizers in advance, ask him if your pet would have any problems with Valerian (a natural tranquilizer for humans and animals) and what dose would be safe for him.

Those of you who live in an area where flooding is possible might want to keep a pet life jacket in your emergency kit. Most dogs and cats can swim (dogs with heavy bodies and short legs can't - like basset hounds), but for how long? It could be a long way in treacherous rapids and debris before they could find an escape route. The life jackets are bright yellow to allow your pet to be seen from a long distance, they have a grab handle so anyone could pull them out of the water easily, and they're incredibly inexpensive. You may not be in a flood zone now, but would you be if terrorists or an earthquake destroyed a nearby dam?

A great "quick-escape" survival kit you can just grab and run would be kept in a backpack. You could also grab "Fido's" backpack (which you keep filled with his survival essentials, including a collapsible water bowl for compact storage). Once you are both in a safe area, simply strap his backpack on so he can carry his own load - or get one large enough to carry some of your essentials also.

Dogs and cats should always wear an ID tag so that they can be returned to you if they do get lost in an emergency. You might even put a second phone number of a friend or relative in another neighborhood. Since ID tags can come off, an even better idea is to have a microchip placed under your pet's skin by a veterinarian.

Prior to an emergency (now) is the time to get all shots their up to date. Wild animals carrying rabies could come to your home looking for food after a disaster, and flood waters might bring diseases with them.


U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Kevin Reese and his military working dog Grek wait at a safe house before conducting an assault against insurgents in Buhriz, Iraq, April 10, 2007. U.S. Army Soldiers from 5th Battalion, 20th Infantry Regiment, 2nd Infantry Division and Iraqi army soldiers from 4th Battalion, 2nd Brigade, 5th Iraqi Army Division are going house-to-house in search for weapons caches and enemy fighters after more than 1,000 residents of this Baqubah suburb were displaced by al-Qaeda insurgents. (U.S.Air Force photo by Staff Sgt. Stacy L. Pearsall)


Canine Survival Kit

  • 3 day food supply (canned or dry)
  • Any prescription medication
  • One can opener, non-electric
  • One dog leash
  • One unbreakable food bowl
  • One unbreakable water bowl
  • 3 day water supply
  • Newspaper
  • Paper towels
  • Ten packages 3" x 3" sterile gauze pads (2 sponges per package)
  • Two 3" sterile gauze bandage rolls
  • Two 4" sterile gauze bandage rolls
  • One roll of hypoallergenic cloth tape
  • Plastic bags for waste disposal
  • Three pet vitamins
  • One pet toy or chew bone
  • One 4 fluid ounce bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide
  • Five triple antibiotic foil packs
  • One pair of folding scissors
  • One or more pictures of your pet (in a water-tight plastic bag)
  • One set of pet’s veterinary records
  • Instructions on pet’s special needs
  • **Keep pet ID tags up to date!!!

Feline Survival Kit

  • 3 day food supply (canned or dry)
  • Any prescription medication
  • One Cat Carrier
  • One can opener, non-electric
  • One cat leash with harness
  • One unbreakable food bowl
  • One unbreakable water bowl
  • 3 day water supply
  • Litter and litter box
  • Plastic bags for waste disposal
  • Newspaper
  • Paper towels
  • Eight packages 3" x 3" sterile gauze pads (2 sponges per package)
  • Two 2" sterile gauze bandage rolls
  • One roll of hypoallergenic cloth tape
  • Three pet vitamins
  • One toy ball or catnip pillow or favorite toy
  • One ½ oz bag of catnip
  • One 4 fl ounce bottle of Hydrogen Peroxide
  • Five triple antibiotic foil packs
  • One pair of folding scissors
  • One or more pictures of your pet (in water-tight plastic bag)
  • One set of pet’s veterinary records
  • Instructions on pet’s special needs
  • **Keep pet ID tags up to date!!!

Sharp Nickel, horse of Mérens, 2007.


Horse Survival Kit

  • Plastic trash barrel with lid
  • Water bucket
  • Leg wraps
  • Fire resistant non-nylon leads and halters
  • Sheet or blanket
  • Tarps
  • First aid kit
  • Flashlight
  • Portable radio and extra batteries
  • Sharp knife
  • Wire cutters
  • Lime/bleach
  • Medical records folder including current photos in water tight plastic bag
  • Special medications or food
  • Three day supply of hay and water

Emergency Preparedness For Your Horse

Before Disaster Strikes

  • Be sure each horse has identification: halter with ID tag, tattoo, brand and/or microchip. Include the name of an out of the area contact in case you can’t be reached.
  • Have trailers and vans maintained, full of gas, and ready to move at all times. Be sure your horse will load easily into the trailer.
  • Contact neighbors who will be willing to take care of your horse in case you are unable to get home. Provide them with keys and phone numbers.
  • Make sure nothing can fall on your horse where he is housed.
  • Keep current records of your horse’s vaccinations. Include information regarding any medications or special feeding instructions, along with the name and phone number of your veterinarian.
  • Locate potential evacuation sites in your community. Contact the facilities in advance to find out if they can accommodate your horse.
  • Determine the best location to take your horse. Map out several routes to this location. If you are unsure where to take your horse, call your veterinarian.
  • In high risk fire areas, clear fire breaks around your house, barns and property lines. Keep fire fighting tools in one location (shovel, ladder, rakes and hoses).
  • In flood areas, identify available high ground on your property or nearby evacuation sites.
    Determine alternate water sources in case power is lost and pumps are not working.

During and After the Disaster

  • Do not try to hold on to your horse during an earthquake. Animals will instinctively protect themselves and go where they’re safe. When frightened any animal can turn on you.
  • Be cautious of local wildlife which may be lost or disoriented.
  • Be patient with your horse after the quake. He’ll be stressed just like people and need time to readjust. He may disappear for some time, but will generally show up again when things have calmed down.
  • Check fences and pastures for damage and foreign objects. Do not let horses roam unattended outside. Keep them in a secure area.
  • If your horse is lost during the disaster, contact local animal control immediately. Be prepared to show identification and proof of ownership when claiming your horse.
  • Check with your veterinarian, the Department of Agriculture and the Department of Health Services for disease outbreaks that may have occurred as a result of the disaster.
  • When you do find your horse, examine him/her for illness or injuries. Obtain medical attention from your veterinarian if needed.
  • If you find someone else’s horse, call local animal control immediately. Isolate the horse from your own until it is returned to its owner or can be examined by a veterinarian. Use extreme caution when approaching and handling strange animals.

If You Must Leave your Horse:

  • House your horse in a safe, secure area with adequate ventilation. Leave enough food for at least 3 days. A sufficient supply of water is critical. One animal can easily drink several gallons of water a day when under stress. Place water in containers that aren’t easily knocked over, and leave a faucet dripping into a bathtub or sink with an open drain. If you expect flooding, provide access to elevated spaces.
  • Place a notice on your front door advising what animals are at the house and where they are located. Provide a telephone number where you or a contact can be reached as well as the name and number of your vet.
  • Emergency Contact Information:

    Office of Emergency Services
    County Animal Coordinator
    Local Animal Control
    County Disaster Coordinator, During a disaster call 1-800-655-2862
    County Agricultural Commissioner
    Your Veterinarian
    Potential Evacuation Sites

Your Pets Depend On You. Get Them Geared Up for Survival Today.

Lassie filming movie on location in Florida, 1965.


Joke: A dog is truly a man's best friend. If you don't believe it, just try this experiment: Put your dog and your wife in the trunk of the car for an hour. When you open the trunk, who is really happy to see you?

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Shelters

Hypo, dog of W.J. Harris, photographer, 1898.


A shelter can protect you from the sun, insects, wind, rain, snow, hot or cold temperatures, and enemy observation. It can give you a feeling of well-being. It can help you maintain your will to survive.

In some areas, your need for shelter may take precedence over your need for food and possibly even your need for water. For example, prolonged exposure to cold can cause excessive fatigue and weakness (exhaustion). An exhausted person may develop a "passive" outlook, thereby losing the will to survive.

The most common error in making a shelter is to make it too large. A shelter must be large enough to protect you. It must also be small enough to contain your body heat, especially in cold climates.

Shelter Site Selection

When you are in a survival situation and realize that shelter is a high priority, start looking for shelter as soon as possible. As you do so, remember what you will need at the site. Two requisites are:

  • It must contain material to make the type of shelter you need.
  • It must be large enough and level enough for you to lie down comfortably.

When you consider these requisites, however, you cannot ignore your tactical situation or your safety. You must also consider whether the site:

  • Provides concealment from enemy observation.
  • Has camouflaged escape routes.
  • Is suitable for signaling, if necessary.
  • Provides protection against wild animals and rocks and dead trees that might fall.
  • Is free from insects, reptiles, and poisonous plants.

You must also remember the problems that could arise in your environment. For instance:

  • Avoid flash flood areas in foothills.
  • Avoid avalanche or rockslide areas in mountainous terrain.
  • Avoid sites near bodies of water that are below the high water mark.

In some areas, the season of the year has a strong bearing on the site you select. Ideal sites for a shelter differ in winter and summer. During cold winter months you will want a site that will protect you from the cold and wind, but will have a source of fuel and water. During summer months in the same area you will want a source of water, but you will want the site to be almost insect free.

When considering shelter site selection, use the word BLISS as a guide.

B - Blend in with the surroundings.
L - Low silhouette.
I - Irregular shape.
S - Small.
S - Secluded location.

Types of Shelters

When looking for a shelter site, keep in mind the type of shelter (protection) you need. However, you must also consider:

  • How much time and effort you need to build the shelter.
  • If the shelter will adequately protect you from the elements (sun, wind, rain, snow).
  • If you have the tools to build it. If not, can you make improvised tools?
  • If you have the type and amount of materials needed to build it.

To answer these questions, you need to know how to make various types of shelters and what materials you need to make them.

Poncho Lean-To

It takes only a short time and minimal equipment to build this lean-to (Figure 5-1). You need a poncho, 2 to 3 meters of rope or parachute suspension line, three stakes about 30 centimeters long, and two trees or two poles 2 to 3 meters apart. Before selecting the trees you will use or the location of your poles, check the wind direction. Ensure that the back of your lean-to will be into the wind.

To make the lean-to:

  • Tie off the hood of the poncho. Pull the drawstring tight, roll the hood longways, fold it into thirds, and tie it off with the drawstring.
  • Cut the rope in half. On one long side of the poncho, tie half of the rope to the corner grommet.
  • Attach a drip stick (about a 10-centimeter stick) to each rope about 2.5 centimeters from the grommet. These drip sticks will keep rainwater from running down the ropes into the lean-to. Tying strings (about 10 centimeters long) to each grommet along the poncho's top edge will allow the water to run to and down the line without dripping into the shelter.
  • Tie the ropes about waist high on the trees (uprights). Use a round turn and two half hitches with a quick-release knot.
  • Spread the poncho and anchor it to the ground, putting sharpened sticks through the grommets and into the ground.
  • Tie the other half to the other corner grommet.

If you plan to use the lean-to for more than one night, or you expect rain, make a center support for the lean-to. Make this support with a line. Attach one end of the line to the poncho hood and the other end to an overhanging branch. Make sure there is no slack in the line.

Another method is to place a stick upright under the center of the lean-to. This method, however, will restrict your space and movements in the shelter.

For additional protection from wind and rain, place some brush, your rucksack, or other equipment at the sides of the lean-to.

To reduce heat loss to the ground, place some type of insulating material, such as leaves or pine needles, inside your lean-to.

Note: When at rest, you lose as much as 80 percent of your body heat to the ground.

To increase your security from enemy observation, lower the lean-to's silhouette by making two changes. First, secure the support lines to the trees at knee height (not at waist height) using two knee-high sticks in the two center grommets (sides of lean-to). Second, angle the poncho to the ground, securing it with sharpened sticks, as above.

Poncho Tent

This tent (Figure 5-2) provides a low silhouette. It also protects you from the elements on two sides. It has, however, less usable space and observation area than a lean-to, decreasing your reaction time to enemy detection. To make this tent, you need a poncho, two 1.5- to 2.5-meter ropes, six sharpened sticks about 30 centimeters long, and two trees 2 to 3 meters apart.

To make the tent:

  • Tie off the poncho hood in the same way as the poncho lean-to.
  • Tie a 1.5- to 2.5-meter rope to the center grommet on each side of the poncho.
  • Tie the other ends of these ropes at about knee height to two trees 2 to 3 meters apart and stretch the poncho tight.
  • Draw one side of the poncho tight and secure it to the ground pushing sharpened sticks through the grommets.
  • Follow the same procedure on the other side.

If you need a center support, use the same methods as for the poncho lean-to. Another center support is an A-frame set outside but over the center of the tent (Figure 5-3). Use two 90- to 120-centimeter-long sticks, one with a forked end, to form the A-frame. Tie the hood's drawstring to the A-frame to support the center of the tent.

Three-Pole Parachute Tepee

If you have a parachute and three poles and the tactical situation allows, make a parachute tepee. It is easy and takes very little time to make this tepee. It provides protection from the elements and can act as a signaling device by enhancing a small amount of light from a fire or candle. It is large enough to hold several people and their equipment and to allow sleeping, cooking, and storing firewood.

You can make this tepee using parts of or a whole personnel main or reserve parachute canopy. If using a standard personnel parachute, you need three poles 3.5 to 4.5 meters long and about 5 centimeters in diameter.

To make this tepee (Figure 5-4):

  • Lay the poles on the ground and lash them together at one end.
  • Stand the framework up and spread the poles to form a tripod.
  • For more support, place additional poles against the tripod. Five or six additional poles work best, but do not lash them to the tripod.
  • Determine the wind direction and locate the entrance 90 degrees or more from the mean wind direction.
  • Lay out the parachute on the "backside" of the tripod and locate the bridle loop (nylon web loop) at the top (apex) of the canopy.
  • Place the bridle loop over the top of a free-standing pole. Then place the pole back up against the tripod so that the canopy's apex is at the same height as the lashing on the three poles.
  • Wrap the canopy around one side of the tripod. The canopy should be of double thickness, as you are wrapping an entire parachute. You need only wrap half of the tripod, as the remainder of the canopy will encircle the tripod in the opposite direction.· Construct the entrance by wrapping the folded edges of the canopy around two free-standing poles. You can then place the poles side by side to close the tepee's entrance.
  • Place all extra canopy underneath the tepee poles and inside to create a floor for the shelter.
  • Leave a 30- to 50-centimeter opening at the top for ventilation if you intend to have a fire inside the tepee.

One-Pole Parachute Tepee

You need a 14-gore section (normally) of canopy, stakes, a stout center pole, and inner core and needle to construct this tepee. You cut the suspension lines except for 40- to 45-centimeter lengths at the canopy's lower lateral band.

To make this tepee (Figure 5-5):

  • Select a shelter site and scribe a circle about 4 meters in diameter on the ground.
  • Stake the parachute material to the ground using the lines remaining at the lower lateral band.
  • After deciding where to place the shelter door, emplace a stake and tie the first line (from the lower lateral band) securely to it.
  • Stretch the parachute material taut to the next line, emplace a stake on the scribed line, and tie the line to it.
  • Continue the staking process until you have tied all the lines.
  • Loosely attach the top of the parachute material to the center pole with a suspension line you previously cut and, through trial and error, determine the point at which the parachute material will be pulled tight once the center pole is upright.
  • Then securely attach the material to the pole.
  • Using a suspension line (or inner core), sew the end gores together leaving 1 or 1.2 meters for a door.

No-Pole Parachute Tepee

You use the same materials, except for the center pole, as for the one-pole parachute tepee.

To make this tepee (Figure 5-6):

  • Tie a line to the top of parachute material with a previously cut suspension line.
  • Throw the line over a tree limb, and tie it to the tree trunk.
  • Starting at the opposite side from the door, emplace a stake on the scribed 3.5- to 4.3-meter circle.
  • Tie the first line on the lower lateral band.
  • Continue emplacing the stakes and tying the lines to them.
  • After staking down the material, unfasten the line tied to the tree trunk, tighten the tepee material by pulling on this line, and tie it securely to the tree trunk.

One-Man Shelter

A one-man shelter you can easily make using a parachute requires a tree and three poles. One pole should be about 4.5 meters long and the other two about 3 meters long.

To make this shelter (Figure 5-7):

  • Secure the 4.5-meter pole to the tree at about waist height.
  • Lay the two 3-meter poles on the ground on either side of and in the same direction as the 4.5- meter pole.
  • Lay the folded canopy over the 4.5 meter pole so that about the same amount of material hangs on both sides.
  • Tuck the excess material under the 3-meter poles, and spread it on the ground inside to serve as a floor.
  • Stake down or put a spreader between the two 3-meter poles at the shelter's entrance so they will not slide inward.
  • Use any excess material to cover the entrance.

The parachute cloth makes this shelter wind resistant, and the shelter is small enough that it is easily warmed. A candle, used carefully, can keep the inside temperature comfortable. This shelter is unsatisfactory, however, when snow is falling as even a light snowfall will cave it in.

Parachute Hammock

You can make a hammock using 6 to 8 gores of parachute canopy and two trees about 4.5 meters apart (Figure 5-8).

Field-Expedient Lean-To

If you are in a wooded area and have enough natural materials, you can make a field-expedient lean-to (Figure 5-9) without the aid of tools or with only a knife. It takes longer to make this type of shelter than it does to make other types, but it will protect you from the elements.

You will need two trees (or upright poles) about 2 meters apart; one pole about 2 meters long and 2.5 centimeters in diameter; five to eight poles about 3 meters long and 2.5 centimeters in diameter for beams; cord or vines for securing the horizontal support to the trees; and other poles, saplings, or vines to crisscross the beams.

To make this lean-to:

  • Tie the 2-meter pole to the two trees at waist to chest height. This is the horizontal support. If a standing tree is not available, construct a biped using Y-shaped sticks or two tripods.
  • Place one end of the beams (3-meter poles) on one side of the horizontal support. As with all lean-to type shelters, be sure to place the lean-to's backside into the wind.
  • Crisscross saplings or vines on the beams.
  • Cover the framework with brush, leaves, pine needles, or grass, starting at the bottom and working your way up like shingling.
  • Place straw, leaves, pine needles, or grass inside the shelter for bedding.

In cold weather, add to your lean-to's comfort by building a fire reflector wall (Figure 5-9). Drive four 1.5- meter-long stakes into the ground to support the wall. Stack green logs on top of one another between the support stakes. Form two rows of stacked logs to create an inner space within the wall that you can fill with dirt. This action not only strengthens the wall but makes it more heat reflective. Bind the top of the support stakes so that the green logs and dirt will stay in place.

With just a little more effort you can have a drying rack. Cut a few 2-centimeter-diameter poles (length depends on the distance between the lean-to's horizontal support and the top of the fire reflector wall). Lay one end of the poles on the lean-to support and the other end on top of the reflector wall. Place and tie into place smaller sticks across these poles. You now have a place to dry clothes, meat, or fish.

Swamp Bed

In a marsh or swamp, or any area with standing water or continually wet ground, the swamp bed (Figure 5-10) keeps you out of the water. When selecting such a site, consider the weather, wind, tides, and available materials.

To make a swamp bed:

  • Look for four trees clustered in a rectangle, or cut four poles (bamboo is ideal) and drive them firmly into the ground so they form a rectangle. They should be far enough apart and strong enough to support your height and weight, to include equipment.
  • Cut two poles that span the width of the rectangle. They, too, must be strong enough to support your weight.
  • Secure these two poles to the trees (or poles). Be sure they are high enough above the ground or water to allow for tides and high water.
  • Cut additional poles that span the rectangle's length. Lay them across the two side poles, and secure them.
  • Cover the top of the bed frame with broad leaves or grass to form a soft sleeping surface.
  • Build a fire pad by laying clay, silt, or mud on one comer of the swamp bed and allow it to dry.

Another shelter designed to get you above and out of the water or wet ground uses the same rectangular configuration as the swamp bed. You very simply lay sticks and branches lengthwise on the inside of the trees (or poles) until there is enough material to raise the sleeping surface above the water level.

A cave in St. Moré, France, along the Cure river.


Natural Shelters

Do not overlook natural formations that provide shelter. Examples are caves, rocky crevices, clumps of bushes, small depressions, large rocks on leeward sides of hills, large trees with low-hanging limbs, and fallen trees with thick branches.

However, when selecting a natural formation:

  • Stay away from low ground such as ravines, narrow valleys, or creek beds. Low areas collect the heavy cold air at night and are therefore colder than the surrounding high ground. Thick, brushy, low ground also harbors more insects.
  • Check for poisonous snakes, ticks, mites, scorpions, and stinging ants.
  • Look for loose rocks, dead limbs, coconuts, or other natural growth than could fall on your shelter.

Debris Hut

For warmth and ease of construction, this shelter is one of the best. When shelter is essential to survival, build this shelter.

To make a debris hut (Figure 5-11):

  • Build it by making a tripod with two short stakes and a long ridgepole or by placing one end of a long ridgepole on top of a sturdy base.
  • Secure the ridgepole (pole running the length of the shelter) using the tripod method or by anchoring it to a tree at about waist height.
  • Prop large sticks along both sides of the ridgepole to create a wedge-shaped ribbing effect. Ensure the ribbing is wide enough to accommodate your body and steep enough to shed moisture.
  • Place finer sticks and brush crosswise on the ribbing. These form a latticework that will keep the insulating material (grass, pine needles, leaves) from falling through the ribbing into the sleeping area.
  • Add light, dry, if possible, soft debris over the ribbing until the insulating material is at least 1 meter thick--the thicker the better.
  • Place a 30-centimeter layer of insulating material inside the shelter.
  • At the entrance, pile insulating material that you can drag to you once inside the shelter to close the entrance or build a door.
  • As a final step in constructing this shelter, add shingling material or branches on top of the debris layer to prevent the insulating material from blowing away in a storm.

Tree-Pit Snow Shelter

If you are in a cold, snow-covered area where evergreen trees grow and you have a digging tool, you can make a tree-pit shelter (Figure 5-12).

To make this shelter:

  • Find a tree with bushy branches that provides overhead cover.
  • Dig out the snow around the tree trunk until you reach the depth and diameter you desire, or until you reach the ground.
  • Pack the snow around the top and the inside of the hole to provide support.
  • Find and cut other evergreen boughs. Place them over the top of the pit to give you additional overhead cover. Place evergreen boughs in the bottom of the pit for insulation.

Beach Shade Shelter

This shelter protects you from the sun, wind, rain, and heat. It is easy to make using natural materials.

To make this shelter (Figure 5-13):

  • Find and collect driftwood or other natural material to use as support beams and as a digging tool.
  • Select a site that is above the high water mark.
  • Scrape or dig out a trench running north to south so that it receives the least amount of sunlight. Make the trench long and wide enough for you to lie down comfortably.
  • Mound soil on three sides of the trench. The higher the mound, the more space inside the shelter.
  • Lay support beams (driftwood or other natural material) that span the trench on top of the mound to form the framework for a roof.
  • Enlarge the shelter's entrance by digging out more sand in front of it.
  • Use natural materials such as grass or leaves to form a bed inside the shelter.

Desert Shelters

In an arid environment, consider the time, effort, and material needed to make a shelter. If you have
material such as a poncho, canvas, or a parachute, use it along with such terrain features as rock outcropping, mounds of sand, or a depression between dunes or rocks to make your shelter.

Using rock outcroppings:

  • Anchor one end of your poncho (canvas, parachute, or other material) on the edge of the outcrop using rocks or other weights.
  • Extend and anchor the other end of the poncho so it provides the best possible shade.

In a sandy area:

  • Build a mound of sand or use the side of a sand dune for one side of the shelter.
  • Anchor one end of the material on top of the mound using sand or other weights.
  • Extend and anchor the other end of the material so it provides the best possible shade.

Note: If you have enough material, fold it in half and form a 30-centimeter to 45-centimeter airspace between the two halves. This airspace will reduce the temperature under the shelter.

A belowground shelter (Figure 5-14) can reduce the midday heat as much as 16 to 22 degrees C (30 to 40 degrees F). Building it, however, requires more time and effort than for other shelters. Since your physical effort will make you sweat more and increase dehydration, construct it before the heat of the day.

To make this shelter:

  • Find a low spot or depression between dunes or rocks. If necessary, dig a trench 45 to 60 centimeters deep and long and wide enough for you to lie in comfortably.
  • Pile the sand you take from the trench to form a mound around three sides.
  • On the open end of the trench, dig out more sand so you can get in and out of your shelter easily.
  • Cover the trench with your material.
  • Secure the material in place using sand, rocks, or other weights.

If you have extra material, you can further decrease the midday temperature in the trench by securing the material 30 to 45 centimeters above the other cover. This layering of the material will reduce the inside temperature 11 to 22 degrees C (20 to 40 degrees).

Another type of belowground shade shelter is of similar construction, except all sides are open to air currents and circulation. For maximum protection, you need a minimum of two layers of parachute material (Figure 5-15). White is the best color to reflect heat; the innermost layer should be of darker
material.

Excerpt from the US Army Survival Manual FM 21-76

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Hot Sauce, It Burns So Good



Can hot sauce help you lose weight?

A study published in the British Journal of Nutrition has discovered that capsaicin, (the stuff in peppers that makes them hot), when added to breakfast foods or appetizers at lunch, causes people to eat less during meals and for hours afterwards. Thirteen women, who ate breakfast foods spiced with red pepper, ate less than normal at breakfast and during the day, while ten men, who ate red pepper laced appetizers, consumed fewer calories at lunch and during a mid-day snack hours later. Aside from acting as an appetite suppressant, red pepper also seems to increase the number of calories burned, particularly after high-fat meals.

Why is capsaicin good for you?

Capsaicin and substances that contain it are among the most studied of substances in medical, pharmaceutical, and nutrition research. Although many of the claims have not yet been substantiated by scientific research, some of these uses have been around for hundreds of years, and they seem to work for many, many people.

Capsaicin:

  1. Improves digestion by stimulating stomach secretions.
  2. Lowers triglycerides.
  3. Has a laxative effect.
  4. Triggers the release of endorphins.
  5. Unclogs stuffy noses by irritating mucus membranes.
  6. May reduce high blood pressure.
  7. May protect against some forms of cancer.
  8. Diabetics Take Note!

Capsaicin contains Vitamins A and C, and beta-carotene. It's low in fat, calories and cholesterol. If you thought your diabetic diet was supposed to be boring, try spicing up your cuisine with capsaicin-based products, like hot sauce or jalapeno peppers. And if that's not enough, capsaicin also appears to increase your metabolic rate so you can burn more calories. This is an important finding for dieters. If you sprinkle cayenne pepper flakes on your low-fat pizza or soup, toss some sliced jalapeno peppers into your salad, or chop some habanero peppers into your turkey chili, you may be able to lose weight faster! You'll also benefit from the other perks: lower triglycerides and great digestion.

Improve the odds that your family will reap the health benefits of capsaicin. Keep a bottle of hot sauce on your kitchen table or counter. Low fat tortilla chips and hot sauce make a satisfying appetizer or after-school snack.

Looking to try a new and different hot sauce?

Two of my personal favorites are:

  • Tibetan Fire Sauce - This award winning sauce from Khatsa is based on a Tibetan recipe. 7% of the profits from this product are committed to nature preservation projects in Tibet. Great on baked potatoes, omelettes, pizza, burgers, pasta, beef, poultry, seafood.

  • Catch a Fire Green Lava - Do you miss that wonderful green salsa from the old green burritos at Taco Bell? This tasty sauce is not only similar, but includes an unusual ingredient -- avacado. Yummy!

What's the hottest sauce on the planet?

It's "Satan's Blood." At 800,000 Scoville Units it's the Ultimate Heat for the Ultimate Chilehead!

This FOOD ADDITIVE will burn you to Eternity! YOU MUST BE AT LEAST 18 YEARS OLD AND YOU MUST SIGN A WAIVER TO BUY THIS PRODUCT.

All of the hot sauces mentioned here can be purchased online from Peppers of Key West -- a store that sells nothing but hot sauce. When in Key West, make sure to visit them for free hot sauce tastings. BYOB.

Monday, March 3, 2008

Looking Back? - The Great Depression

Destitute pea pickers in California; 32-year old, mother of seven children, 1930s.


Billionaire Warren Buffett has made it official by announcing that the U.S. economy is in a recession, but is that any cause for alarm?

Take a fresh look at the following timeline of events preceding the Great Depression. It just might make you feel like Chicken Little.


1920s (Decade)

During World War I, federal spending grows three times larger than tax collections. When the government cuts back spending to balance the budget in 1920, a severe recession results. However, the war economy invested heavily in the manufacturing sector, and the next decade will see an explosion of productivity... although only for certain sectors of the economy.

An average of 600 banks fail each year.

Agricultural, energy and coal mining sectors are continually depressed. Textiles, shoes, shipbuilding and railroads continually decline.

The value of farmland falls 30 to 40 percent between 1920 and 1929.

Organized labor declines throughout the decade. The United Mine Workers Union will see its membership fall from 500,000 in 1920 to 75,000 in 1928. The American Federation of Labor would fall from 5.1 million in 1920 to 3.4 million in 1929.

"Technological unemployment" enters the nation's vocabulary; as many as 200,000 workers a year are replaced by automatic or semi-automatic machinery.

Over the decade, about 1,200 mergers will swallow up more than 6,000 previously independent companies; by 1929, only 200 corporations will control over half of all American industry.

By the end of the decade, the bottom 80 percent of all income-earners will be removed from the tax rolls completely. Taxes on the rich will fall throughout the decade.

By 1929, the richest 1 percent will own 40 percent of the nation's wealth. The bottom 93 percent will have experienced a 4 percent drop in real disposable per-capita income between 1923 and 1929.

The middle class comprises only 15 to 20 percent of all Americans.

Individual worker productivity rises an astonishing 43 percent from 1919 to 1929. But the rewards are being funneled to the top: the number of people reporting half-million dollar incomes grows from 156 to 1,489 between 1920 and 1929, a phenomenal rise compared to other decades. But that is still less than 1 percent of all income-earners.

1922
The conservative Supreme Court strikes down federal child labor legislation.

1923
President Warren Harding dies in office; his administration was easily one of the most corrupt in American history. Calvin Coolidge, who is squeaky clean by comparison, becomes president. Coolidge is no less committed to laissez-faire and a non-interventionist government. He announces to the American people: "The business of America is business."

Supreme Court nullifies minimum wage for women in District of Columbia.

1924
The Ku Klux Klan reaches the height of its influence in America: by the end of the year it will claim 9 million members. It will decline drastically in 1925, however, after financial and moral scandals rock its leadership.

The stock market begins its spectacular rise. Bears little relation to the rest of the economy.

1925
The top tax rate is lowered to 25 percent - the lowest top rate in the eight decades since World War I.

Supreme Court rules that trade organizations do not violate anti-trust laws as long as some competition survives.

1928
The construction boom is over.

Farmers' share of the national income has dropped from 15 to 9 percent since 1920.

Between May 1928 and September 1929, the average prices of stocks will rise 40 percent.

Trading will mushroom from 2-3 million shares per day to over 5 million. The boom is largely artificial.

1929
Herbert Hoover becomes President. Hoover is a staunch individualist but not as committed to laissez-faire ideology as Coolidge.

A depression-era family in Elm Grove, California.


More than half of all Americans are living below a minimum subsistence level.

Annual per-capita income is $750; for farm people, it is only $273.

Backlog of business inventories grows three times larger than the year before. Public consumption markedly down.

Freight carloads and manufacturing fall.

Automobile sales decline by a third in the nine months before the crash.

Construction down $2 billion since 1926.

Recession begins in August, two months before the stock market crash. During this two month period, production will decline at an annual rate of 20 percent, wholesale prices at 7.5 percent, and personal income at 5 percent.

Stock market crash begins October 24. Investors call October 29 "Black Tuesday." Losses for the month will total $16 billion, an astronomical sum in those days.

Congress passes Agricultural Marketing Act to support farmers until they can get back on their feet.



P.S. A small bank just closed in my neighborhood.


Sunday, March 2, 2008

Uncle! - The Evolution of Sam

1877 - Sam, a ground-breaking...



1899 - ...personal trainer,...



1916 - ...seriously...



2001 - ...pissed off,...



2008 - ...kicks ass.



Sam's future? - Gorgeous.

Peace on Earth. Blondes rule.

Saturday, March 1, 2008

Environmental Injuries

Allegory of Winter, Anonymous, France, c. 1760


Heatstroke, hypothermia, diarrhea, and intestinal parasites are all environmental injuries.

Heatstroke

The breakdown of the body's heat regulatory system (body temperature more than 40.5 degrees C [105 degrees F]) causes a heatstroke. Other heat injuries, such as cramps or dehydration, do not always precede a heatstroke. Signs and symptoms of heatstroke are:

  • Swollen, beet-red face.
  • Reddened whites of eyes.
  • Victim not sweating.
  • Unconsciousness or delirium, which can cause pallor, a bluish color to lips and nail beds
    (cyanosis), and cool skin.

Note: By this time the victim is in severe shock. Cool the victim as rapidly as possible. Cool him by dipping him in a cool stream. If one is not available, douse the victim with urine, water, or at the very least, apply cool wet com-presses to all the joints, especially the neck, armpits, and crotch. Be sure to wet the victim's head. Heat loss through the scalp is great. Administer IVs and provide drinking fluids. You may fan the individual.

Expect, during cooling:

  • Vomiting.
  • Diarrhea.
  • Struggling.
  • Shivering.
  • Shouting.
  • Prolonged unconsciousness.
  • Rebound heatstroke within 48 hours.
  • Cardiac arrest; be ready to perform CPR.

Note: Treat for dehydration with lightly salted water.


The Snowstorm, Francisco de Goya (ca. 1786-1787)


Hypothermia

Defined as the body's failure to maintain a temperature of 36 degrees C (97 degrees F). Exposure to cool or cold temperature over a short or long time can cause hypothermia. Dehydration and lack of food and rest predispose the survivor to hypothermia. Unlike heatstroke, you must gradually warm the hypothermia victim. Get the victim into dry clothing. Replace lost fluids, and warm him.

Diarrhea

A common, debilitating ailment caused by a change of water and food, drinking contaminated water, eating spoiled food, becoming fatigued, and using dirty dishes. You can avoid most of these causes by practicing preventive medicine. If you get diarrhea, however, and do not have antidiarrheal medicine, one of the following treatments may be effective:

  • Limit your intake of fluids for 24 hours.
  • Drink one cup of a strong tea solution every 2 hours until the diarrhea slows or stops. The tannic acid in the tea helps to control the diarrhea. Boil the inner bark of a hardwood tree for 2 hours or more to release the tannic acid.
  • Make a solution of one handful of ground chalk, charcoal, or dried bones and treated water. If you have some apple pomace or the rinds of citrus fruit, add an equal portion to the mixture to make it more effective. Take 2 tablespoons of the solution every 2 hours until the diarrhea slows or stops.

Goya Attending to Arrieta, Francisco de Goya, 1820


Intestinal Parasites

You can usually avoid worm infestations and other intestinal parasites if you take preventive measures. For example, never go barefoot. The most effective way to prevent intestinal parasites is to avoid uncooked meat and raw vegetables contaminated by raw sewage or human waste used as a fertilizer.

However, should you become infested and lack proper medicine, you can use home remedies. Keep in mind that these home remedies work on the principle of changing the environment of the gastrointestinal tract. The following are home remedies you could use:

  • Salt water. Dissolve 4 tablespoons of salt in 1 liter of water and drink. Do not repeat this treatment.
  • Tobacco. Eat 1 to 1.5 cigarettes. The nicotine in the cigarette will kill or stun the worms long enough for your system to pass them. If the infestation is severe, repeat the treatment in 24 to 48 hours, but no sooner.
  • Kerosene. Drink 2 tablespoons of kerosene but no more. If necessary, you can repeat this treatment in 24 to 48 hours. Be careful not to inhale the fumes. They may cause lung irritation.
  • Hot peppers. Peppers are effective only if they are a steady part of your diet. You can eat them raw or put them in soups or rice and meat dishes. They create an environment that is prohibitive to parasitic attachment.

Excerpt from the U.S. Army Survival Manual

Rocket, Man

An engineer at Vandenberg Air Force Base puts the finishing touches on a GMD interceptor.


Click to enlarge.

The Ground-based Midcourse Defense (GMD) System is the first missile defense program deployed operationally to defend the United States against ballistic missile attacks conducted by terrorists or rogue states. The system provides early detection and tracking during the boost phase, midcourse target discrimination, precision intercept and destruction of inbound ICBMs through force of hit-to-kill technology.

Photo credits: Boeing, Sandia National Labs and the U.S. Air Force.

To read and see more about the GMD System, visit:

Boeing - Integrated Defense Systems